Leathering a seat

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Leathering a seat

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Leathering a seat

Postby Mark » Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:08 pm

Paul has very kindly volunteered to pick out the relevant threads from the various build diaries and make them up into a master class thread. This is really very generous of him as it's going to take a fair bit of time and effort.
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Fri Oct 21, 2011 2:19 pm

This is Baby Aston's version of doing a leather job on a DB5 seat, from his build diary.

viewtopic.php?f=73&t=1053

After Aston's Posts, Tony's are to follow, which don't need too many "chop jobs" on the plastic, and then Phil's leather job on his e-type build.

Many thanks to Baby Aston's, Tony and Phil for allowing us to share their excellent build jobs :D

On the rest of Aston's posts, I'll just put his name at the top

This, version does need a major "chop job" on the plastic parts of the seat:


oh boy,
so it won't be a straight leather job anyhow -
it'll be cutting and screaming before I can start with the leather -

as one poet would say somewhere else:
there is nothing either good or bad, but thinking makes it so...
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Fri Oct 21, 2011 2:23 pm

Baby Astons

well, hummm,
you know, the seat form is not perfect and the piping should be in a different place as the dividing lines suggest -
so as I'll be cutting I'll also take out the inner parts of the seat and assemble everything anew once finished with leather -

just another crazy baby job :mrgreen:
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Fri Oct 21, 2011 2:26 pm

Baby Astons

well guys (and gals o'course!),

crazy me having been occupied with a silly amount of work that i need to explain:
having made several smaller leather conversions, i always disliked the fake piping I had to make -
this scale is now the chance to do it (almost :? ) properly, so off I went and cut up the seat as a base for what will be seen in the next installment:

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masking off the first cutting line as I feel the dividing line for the piping is way too low on the seat...

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cut off a part of the upper seat half,
this piece shall be glued onto the lower seat part...

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tested if my glue will work on the material...

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it does :)

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and this it is, nice liquid cement - so thi proves, the plastic parts are from polystyrene...

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not finished yet, middle portion cut out...

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and made the proper grooves (groovy baby :lol: )...

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now come the styrene strips - the seat should be shallower but also wider...

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holding the strips to let them dry...

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same procedure on the upper part...

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car polyester putty applied...

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and sanded...

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this is how the seat looks like now.

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now over to the back rest, not easier I can tell you :shock:

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to have the dividing lines OK it had to be cut into 3 parts...

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rear panel sanded to leave space for 2 layers of leather (one on each part...).

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be warned, this is how your desk will look like if you do this conversion -
note circular pieces - rear panel tabs cut off to allow recessing of the panel...

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the drawer handle cut off (of course - more on my plans later) -
and again seat sanded to allow for both seat and drawer leather layers...

phew,
this is it for now, leather to come tomorrow...
cheerio :mrgreen:
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Fri Oct 21, 2011 2:30 pm

Baby Astons

now before you start throwing model parts at me,
note I've managed to finish only the lower part of the seat,
more (maybe) tomorrow... :?

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the most important question of all: which colour... :shock:

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call me coward but I've started with the least ambitious part, just to train a bit...

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finished off on the back side,

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not so bad, now to something more daunting...

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this should be the piping, a bit like the real thing, although using a brass wire as stiffening...

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edge turned inside and pressed for fixing...

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insert finished, adding the piping;
note the extensions will have the excess leather cut off to form the piping that goes to the front of the seat...

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front part coming along nicely..

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all pipings finished, now to assembly of this whole lot...

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ready to get the bottom part...

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all 3 parts 10 minutes away of finish...

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rear view...
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Fri Oct 21, 2011 2:34 pm

Baby Astons

ImageImage

I like the piping as it's leather and the same colour as the rest of the seat -
(wouldn't have been easy to locate the same colour wire anyway :mrgreen: )

seat ready chaps,
here's the diary

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piping ready to affix to the seat parts...

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preparing the drawer (for paint, decided to go for same shade as seat leather...)

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attaching piping mk1

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attaching piping mk2

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cut a small hole in the leather to insert back rest arms...

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and the other side, very neat finish without any seams...

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drawer painted and dry (3 minutes...);

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already assembled, note small groove on side, to accept leather end,
don't want the leather to come off if rubbing the inside of the seat while operating...

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rear of back rest recessed slightly...

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ready Mk1

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ready Mk2

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drawer inserted...

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smooth finish...

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side finish into the groove...

and finally...
the promised tool kit :mrgreen:

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cheers, enjoy - I do 8-)
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:02 pm

The next guide is going to be from Tony, there is a lot less chopping of plastic than on Aston's version.

In fact, I mostly followed Tony's guide, yet despite with me being a total novice, even I still managed to do it!

Tony's build diary is here:

viewtopic.php?f=73&t=858
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:14 pm

Tony

I'm starting on the seat now and have sprayed the parts grey so I can draw on my piping lines and cut a track for it to sit into.

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I used Halfords Grey Plastic Primer and it goes on very easily. If I run into problems with the leather, I may just use this paint and then use Johnsons Klear to give a leather like sheen. In my opinion the sprayed finish looks just as good as the painted finish on the £1500 007 DB5 on a separate thread.

Now the fun really starts :?

Cheers - Tony
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:40 pm

Tony

It was seeing the following link on the Model Motor Cars site that gave me the idea the seat could be covered:

http://www.modelmotorcars.com/Instructi ... 20copy.htm

Tips:
I used Evostick Timebond as this gave some scope to move the leather into position.
Cut the fingers and thumb off a mechanics glove from Halfords so one glove gives 5 ‘applicators’.

When evo sticking the leather, apply the glue to the leather and spread with a gloved finger. Use a clean sheet of A4 paper for each piece of leather to avoid getting glue on good side of leather. I had to scrap a couple of bits of leather because I had glue on the good side.

When evo sticking the seat, apply glue to gloved finger and then apply to seat. It’s much easier to control how much glue is going onto the seat this way. Use a toothpick to get glue into tight corners and right up to the piping line.

When supergluing the piping, use a toothpick to apply a tiny amount of glue.
I drilled 1.2mm holes into the seat to poke the ends of the piping into.

The evostick reacted badly with the primer paint and melted the paint. This was okay providing there was only a thin coating of glue. If the glue is too thick, it just goes into a ‘snotty’ mess that will leave bumps under the thin leather. I needed the painted finish to be able to see my drawn lines and how much I was removing with the file.

Don’t stick masking tape onto the leather because it will lift the surface off! If you look at the seat cushion picture you can see a small area on the second rib in from the right where the tape lifted the surface off. I will live with it though!

When you first stick the leather on, it can look patchy and darker in certain areas than others but it soon goes back to being one colour.
When you overlap a new piece of glued leather onto a piece already stuck in position, don’t wait too long before you trim the excess off. At first I thought (I must not use naughty words)! it’s left a mark but it faded away and was fine.

The wire I used for piping had been folded up for posting so before I used it I tied one end to a door knob and stretched the wire straight to remove the kinks from folding. I then wrapped it around a biscuit barrel and it formed into nice loops. I then had a biscuit!

Method:
After priming the seats with Halfords grey plastic primer (spray can) I used a pencil to draw the line of the piping where there was no moulded line to go by.
I then used a small round file to file this track and also deepen the existing moulded lines including the ribbed seat cushion and back. The idea is to provide a channel for the piping to sit into and to deepen the seat cushion and back so you don’t lose the detail when you glue the leather on. It also provided a cutting line where the leather joins meet. I used a scalpel to trim the leather.

I filed a 45 degree chamfer on the seat mating face where it abuts the seat base to create a track for the piping to sit into.
I did the seat base first and started off by masking the bottom of the seat base so no glue got onto it. One piece of leather was used with a join in the middle of the back of the base.

I then masked around the seat cushion and glued the leather in place and then trimmed the excess off. This is when I made the mistake by masking over the leather I had already glued as mentioned earlier. I found it was okay to apply the glue with care without masking.
The other pieces were done this way.

I joined to two parts of the seat base together and piped along the tracks I had cut with a file earlier.
The seat backrest was done the same way and then assembled to the base.

The last job was to trim the back panel to fit inside the seat backrest and cover it with leather. Note that the seat back sits flush with the backrest but because the back panel has a leather covering, it’s necessary to trim the locator lugs inside the seat backrest to enable the back panel to sit inside the backrest.

There you have it, one leather seat.

I haven’t covered the centre console with leather yet or fitted seat adjuster because I will wait to see how I get on with doing the passenger seat and door cards. I have a spare driver’s seat and if the passenger seat goes wrong, I will buy another and just spray the seats, console and door cards grey.
I have learned a lot doing the seat so the passenger seat and rear bench should be easier but there are still lots of possible pitfalls along the way which is why I want a backup plan!
If you have read this to the end, well done!

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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Sat Oct 22, 2011 9:59 am

Tony

Pictures 2

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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Sat Oct 22, 2011 10:14 am

Tony

Pictures 3

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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Tue Oct 25, 2011 10:56 am

The following is from Phil's e-type build diary.

The e-type seats are both smaller and thinner than the DB5 ones, and also just in one piece (before the chop job!).

viewtopic.php?f=90&t=1356


I decide to do the chop job on the seat after seeing the fantastic job Astons did on the DB5, It took forever, but I'm fairly happy with the result. Now I've got to do it all over again with the other!


Back of seat cut, seat base cut into two pieces:

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The remaining "frame" of the seat leathered with two pieces and there are two very thin side supports or "wings" on the seat :

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After leathering the two base parts, all the parts re-assembled:

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Pic, showing the seat and a bit of "Australian leather" carpet

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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Paul » Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:59 am

Phil's e-type leather seats

Pics of the seats....including the bodge job on the back of the seats :whistle:
Pedals converted to right hand drive.

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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby mrmetallica1 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 12:14 am

whats a good glue to stick the leather to the db5 seats ?
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby Mark » Sat Dec 29, 2018 12:58 am

Evostick Timebond was mentioned somewhere in the thread. I would use a contact adhesive of some sort.
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby wingnut2 » Sat Dec 29, 2018 5:21 pm

Hi John :) good advice from Mark but I'm not sure if you can still it :think: you can still get Evo stick "impact adhesive" (B&Q other glues ect) you coat both/all the parts concerned then allow the both/all part to become "touch" dry, at this stage the part's/all will have "instant" grab when placed together so I would practise on "scraps" at first and ensure you "smooth out" with your fingers for best results.
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Re: Leathering a seat

Postby royjess » Sat Dec 29, 2018 7:51 pm

I would test Evo-stik on a bit of spare sprue from the same plastic, as evo-stik impact glue can melt some plastics
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