motorising the engine

The Japanese WW2 fighter. This kit is virtually all metal and available from DeAgostini at http://www.model-space.com

motorising the engine

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motorising the engine

Postby snapdragon » Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:56 am

Hi chaps.

I am looking on how I can have a go at modding this build fairly easy. It looks like the industrious guys in Japan where this first came out figured how to motorise the engine so the prop not only changed pitch, but rotated too with the air on an engine and battery!

Now there are lights on this aircraft that work according to the blurb, so for the electricians and modders amongst us how would I actually do this? Please remember that the only thing I know about this is how to change a battery and that electricity is invisible - you don't see it coming and you don't see it going - but you damn well know it's been!

Here is a link to the Japanese Deag forum where It is briefly discussed - along with photos. Use google translate for a rough idea.

http://deagostini.jp/community/zst_bbs/detail.php?id=1516

If someone could explain what I need and how I do it in very simple and small words then I would be very grateful - I think that this adds to the build.

James

PS - Could this be done to the Stuka as well - but I have no idea on how the engine is built though!
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Re: motorising the engine

Postby Mark » Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:28 pm

Who says electricity is invisible ?

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Re: motorising the engine

Postby chill » Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:29 pm

Im sure thats my house just on the left.... :o
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Re: motorising the engine

Postby bufferz » Tue Oct 02, 2012 7:30 pm

How about this for necroposting? :lol: Did you get anywhere with the motorised engine Snap?
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Re: motorising the engine

Postby DJG Downunder » Wed Oct 03, 2012 10:42 am

Yeah, a lot of different options there, and without going through the translator, it appears as though they've come up with a number of different motors, all low voltage D.C. jobbies. I assume there will be a motor speed controller in-line between the battery and the D.C. motor, which either includes an on/off switch or you would have to add that as well. The train enthusiasts can probably assist with suggestions on a suitable combination, or even a RC ship's drive system would be similar. Electronically it's not a big deal. I haven't received the on-board battery box yet, but it looks like it takes 3 batteries, so that's 4.5V, if you wanted to use the supplied power system. It looks like there is a circuit board to come as well, but I assume it's just a little commoning board for all the LED connectors, and in-line resistors for the LEDs, plus an on/off switch, but that is an assumption. If so it wouldn't be too hard to tap into the circuit somewhere, but until I get those parts, I don't really know.

The biggest issue I can see myself is that all options involve some fairly involved mods to either the white metal engine casing, front casing cover and/or propellor shaft.
The first one is a pretty big motor physically, and would involve machining off all the internal locating pins and sockets..... yuk, that's a potentially ugly outcome.
One guy even installed a heat sink inside the casing, which in my opinion is a waste of time because there isn't enough cooling air in there and no cooling path for airflow, but that's just a casual observation, he may have drilled holes in the front and rear casing for that.
Whilst you would want to be respectful with regards to heat build up, this is a model after all, so you're not likely to be running the motor for extended periods of time. Although you're nephew might be even more interested in this one than the Stuka, if it had moving parts. :shock: :shock:

I personally wouldn't like to risk damaging those components........ but I'm not as adventurous as some.
As I'm sure you're already aware, those castings are actually pretty soft, I've already had to do a bit of constructive bending to get mine to line up nicely.
Interestingly, you would think with the motor added, it might actually generate enough thrust to get the beast moving if the pitch was set right. (Not flying, but moving).
Wheel chocks maybe? :think:
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Re: motorising the engine

Postby Mark » Wed Oct 03, 2012 10:59 am

My uninformed t'pence worth. You are unlikely to generate any appreciable thrust as propellors don't scale. As you get smaller, you need a blade that is much wider in relation to its length. Although the prop might be scaled down perfectly, you haven't scaled down the viscosity of the air ! Look at RC model aircraft props. They have much wider blades than a true to scale aircraft.

Because your scale prop isn't producing any great thrust, the load on the motor is actually pretty small, and hence you won't have any great heat buildup. An external heat sink is probably a complete waste of time.
A small, lightly loaded motor should run unventilated without overheating.
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Re: motorising the engine

Postby DJG Downunder » Wed Oct 03, 2012 10:11 pm

I definitely defer to the experts when it comes to RC stuff..... I've only ever been involved with 1:1 scale stuff.
That makes perfect sense though Mark, I assume the same principals apply to RC control surfaces as well. Also explains why RC boats and ships always have what appears to be over-scale propellers.
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Re: motorising the engine

Postby baby_astons » Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:31 pm

the zero will have more space for an electric motor with its radial engine - very small and short motors are available which would probably easily fit within the casing -
with the jumo engine in the stuka we might encounter some fitting issues, even if using very thin electric motors - but this is a speculation as I don't know yet how the stuka model engine internals looks like...
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