Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby SDeath » Tue Jun 25, 2013 6:27 pm

Ok today I received the "LED" inserts, and it's clear to me I can't use them for making my working DRL.
The piece is just too narrow to drill or dremel them out to fit the 3mm LED's.
So the solution is just to skip the insert and place the LED's right behind the "glass". As the LED's are round it will look a lot like the plastic insert.
The way the light reflects on the bulbs.
The advantage is that the real LED's including pcb will be almost the same size like the insert, so this will prevent future problems with fitting other parts.
I will be making the final test setup tomorrow afternoon after work probably.
I will put the resistor inside the feed wire to keep the pcb as small as possible, and will try to figure something out how to attach it using the original mounting holes.
Pictures will follow when there is something to show.
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby SDeath » Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:05 am

Been doing some work today, I received the second batch of white LED's so now I have enough to make both DRL mods.
Instead of creating another test setup I bit the bullet and made the final setup already. And I must say I'm very pleased with the result.
The soldering is the best I've ever done (probably all the soldering from the last week improved my soldering skills).
So what I used:
- 12x White LED's (6 per side)
Specs:
Code: Select all
Color     Size(mm)   Wavelength(nm)   ForwardVoltage(V)   ForwardCurrent(mA)   LuminousIntensity(mcd)   Lens Color   View Angle(degrees)
White        3        6000-65000k         3.2-3.4                20                  12000-14000        water clear        20-25

- 2x resistor 220ohm (1 per side)
- some wire.
I used servo wire, as it was easier to test all the setups as I had an RC LiPo battery and a voltage regulator spare.
- piece of experiment pcb board.
- some heat shrink to protect the wires from short circuits.

Cut the pcb board to size with an metal saw.
I soldered the LED's under an angle to the pcb and lined them up with eachother. Every LED I let them stick out the pcb just a bit more than the previous, this way I create some space so I can bend the longest LED a the rest and so get them narrower so they fit behind the plastic glass in the bumper (hope that makes sense, just check the images you'll know what I mean).
I tested 3 AA batteries connected together and there came 4,8V out these fresh batteries my test setup runs at 5V and the LED's are still very bright as you can see from the images, so the 0,2V less should be no problem and still when the voltage of the batteries drop because of usage I'm still pretty sure everything looks ok. Don't want them too bright so they don't look real enough.
Still some small work. Need to add some heat shrink to protect against short circuiting against any metal parts, and still need to figure out a way to mount it, so no images from the back yet as there is nothing to be seen, just some stuff to keep them into place for the pictures.
When all the parts get assembled hopefully nothing will be in the way with these working LED's, I need to find a way to hide the wire but I'm sure I can find a place for it. And need to make sure there isn't too much light bleeding into places where it shouldn't be. So maybe need some covering up on the back and sides.

The result:
Image

Image

Image

Here you can see how it looks when the LED's are off, the copper strips from the pcb shining through the plastic combined with the light reflection on the LED's gives them about the same look as the plastic inserts:
Image

Compared to the plastic inserts. Here you can see the angle I soldered the LED's in and you can see how the longer they get I bend them a bit more to eachother:
Image

Soldering:
Image

Both sets compared to the inserts:
Image

And the servo wire I used. Inside the yellow heat shrink there is the 220ohm resistor:
Image

Let me know what you guys think so far? The hardest part is done now.
All in all took me about 2 hours to get the final setup soldered. But I made 4 different test setups to get the best one figured out.
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby casper » Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:57 am

They look really great SD :clap: :clap: :)
i will have to try this :)
Would be really tricky to drill out the six holes in the surround
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby SDeath » Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:34 am

yeah, you have like 0.5 mm to spare on some parts.
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby baby_astons » Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:57 am

hehe, you have all the space needed if you do it like I do on some db5 lighting =
light leading fibre strands are very thin, the bulb can be placed anywhere (preferrably behind the dash with all the space available) and you need only one LED to fire 10 light points...
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby SDeath » Thu Jun 27, 2013 10:15 am

baby_astons wrote:hehe, you have all the space needed if you do it like I do on some db5 lighting =
light leading fibre strands are very thin, the bulb can be placed anywhere (preferrably behind the dash with all the space available) and you need only one LED to fire 10 light points...

You will need 2mm fiber to give this the best look, and six 2mm fibers per side would be quite hard to route through the car and you will need more than one LED to illuminate that.
If you use thinner fiber the lights will just look too small.
The original DRL are like Xenon lights they have lens projectors in front of them I believe.
But I would love to see others do the same mod and am very interested in their solutions.
I'd love to see this mod with fibres just to compare the results.
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby Paul » Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:34 pm

SDeath wrote:Been doing some work today, I received the second batch of white LED's so now I have enough to make both DRL mods.
Instead of creating another test setup I bit the bullet and made the final setup already. And I must say I'm very pleased with the result.
The soldering is the best I've ever done (probably all the soldering from the last week improved my soldering skills).
So what I used:
- 12x White LED's (6 per side)
Specs:
Code: Select all
Color     Size(mm)   Wavelength(nm)   ForwardVoltage(V)   ForwardCurrent(mA)   LuminousIntensity(mcd)   Lens Color   View Angle(degrees)
White        3        6000-65000k         3.2-3.4                20                  12000-14000        water clear        20-25

- 2x resistor 220ohm (1 per side)
- some wire.
I used servo wire, as it was easier to test all the setups as I had an RC LiPo battery and a voltage regulator spare.
- piece of experiment pcb board.
- some heat shrink to protect the wires from short circuits.

Cut the pcb board to size with an metal saw.
I soldered the LED's under an angle to the pcb and lined them up with eachother. Every LED I let them stick out the pcb just a bit more than the previous, this way I create some space so I can bend the longest LED a the rest and so get them narrower so they fit behind the plastic glass in the bumper (hope that makes sense, just check the images you'll know what I mean).
I tested 3 AA batteries connected together and there came 4,8V out these fresh batteries my test setup runs at 5V and the LED's are still very bright as you can see from the images, so the 0,2V less should be no problem and still when the voltage of the batteries drop because of usage I'm still pretty sure everything looks ok. Don't want them too bright so they don't look real enough.
Still some small work. Need to add some heat shrink to protect against short circuiting against any metal parts, and still need to figure out a way to mount it, so no images from the back yet as there is nothing to be seen, just some stuff to keep them into place for the pictures.
When all the parts get assembled hopefully nothing will be in the way with these working LED's, I need to find a way to hide the wire but I'm sure I can find a place for it. And need to make sure there isn't too much light bleeding into places where it shouldn't be. So maybe need some covering up on the back and sides.

The result:
Image

Image

Image

Here you can see how it looks when the LED's are off, the copper strips from the pcb shining through the plastic combined with the light reflection on the LED's gives them about the same look as the plastic inserts:
Image

Compared to the plastic inserts. Here you can see the angle I soldered the LED's in and you can see how the longer they get I bend them a bit more to eachother:
Image

Soldering:
Image

Both sets compared to the inserts:
Image

And the servo wire I used. Inside the yellow heat shrink there is the 220ohm resistor:
Image

Let me know what you guys think so far? The hardest part is done now.
All in all took me about 2 hours to get the final setup soldered. But I made 4 different test setups to get the best one figured out.

Excellent work again SD and another K :D :D :D
Just :) to Cause a Landslide - Some :superlglue: will be included .....

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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby Paul » Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:38 pm

casper wrote:They look really great SD :clap: :clap: :)
i will have to try this :)
Would be really tricky to drill out the six holes in the surround

Hi Casp,

I think SD has the right idea, with not using the surrounds.

I can also understand what BA is saying in using one LED, but yet again I think SD has the best idea :D
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby SDeath » Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:43 pm

You could use the inserts with 2mm LED's but all 2mm LED's I could find are weirdly shaped.
They all are shaped like this:
Image
Tho no totally unusable, but I had the 3mm LED's so used those, as soldering these would be easier.
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby SDeath » Mon Jul 08, 2013 7:38 pm

Made some quick snapshots with my iPad of the mount:

Image

Image

They are made of pringle cans bottoms dremeled them out. Is used some tape to isolate the metal from the soldering and used some thick doublesided tape to fix the mount to the DRL. Then used the original screws to mount it to the facsia.
Maybe I'll add some tape to the sides to protect from light bleeding through the wrong places.
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby Paul » Mon Jul 08, 2013 7:59 pm

Hi SD,

As you know, I can't do electrics etc, but can I play the devil here with an idea? Heck I will anyway ! :oops: :)

Having done these, can you then run other leads off for the indicators?

I know that previously you've said that the DRLs will only come on via the key fob with the headlights......
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby SDeath » Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:16 pm

Paul wrote:Hi SD,

As you know, I can't do electrics etc, but can I play the devil here with an idea? Heck I will anyway ! :oops: :)

Having done these, can you then run other leads off for the indicators?

I know that previously you've said that the DRLs will only come on via the key fob with the headlights......

You don't have to do it like I did you can create a seperate pcb with power supply and slap on electronics and make lights flash and stuff but that's out of my league to figure out myself.
Running the indicators of the headlight leads will just make them light up like the DRL and headlights.
You need seperate commands from the keyfob to switch seperate functions and you need extra electronics to make them flash.
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby John b » Fri Mar 24, 2017 1:38 am

SDeath do you still have the original photos for this thread as i am finally going to start my GTR and would like to try this mod?
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Re: Daylight Running Lights (DRL)

Postby SDeath » Sat Mar 25, 2017 9:35 am

Hi John,

Yes I have but had to switch them to a new account and didn't feel like updating all the links here is the DRL mod folder:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/7k5d8jrd4sqjw/DRL_Mod
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