Altaya L'Ambitieux

[booth]

I decided to take a risk and paint the hull despite not yet being told the exact measurements. I didn’t like doing this but we are now about to do lots of deck work and decorations and up to issue 101. I studied the pictures and feel comfortable that I have it about right.

A bit of work on the front with cutting holes and fitting the two beams.

[booth]

The railings and ships bell tower. I will put the bell in at the end of the build

[booth]

Work on the chainwales. The instructions left the parts brass but I thought they should be black as I seem to remember that they were likely to me metal. I will turn then into the correct position later.

[Mark]

I think you're right. Real ships have black parts. I think they're wrought iron, but not 100% sure.

[booth]

Continuing the prow

[booth]

Jewish Bitumen
Wonderful stuff for making fake precious metal come alive. I have tried using watered down black paint but this stuff leave a deep kind of shine. This one of the rear windows with just the blue bits done,

This is with the windows painted matt black and the thinned down Jewish Bitumen wash

[Morris]

This is beautiful work - Enjoying this as it develops....

[casper]

excellent
casp

[booth]

Thank you Morris and Casper.

however, the Transoms are not exactly working out as i had hoped. i will post pictures soon but the lower transom is 3 mm too high. it doesn't sound much but it needs to be spot on if the metalwork is able to fit. i am still pondering what to do

[booth]

Some work on the little boats. To be honest, I chose to paint these for two reasons - I think that the real original boats were painted but also because I bodged up the hull planking and had to use filler. There, I said it!

[royjess]

I've just came across this build, what a beautiful build, lovely ship, lovely work

[booth]

Some work in the Prow now. The strips of brass come in a coil and take some work to straighten out to the correct curve before cutting and gluing in place.
Figurehead in place as well






The transoms are not a success story.



The top buts fitted well and the top transom appears to be in the right position



The test was the two large cherubs either side. They had to fit snugly into the shields and feet touching the railing.







But the lower transom is about 3mm two close to the one above. I will wait until I collect in August the joining pillars to see how far it out exactly is but in my heart I think I will have to cut it off and do it again so I will order a replacement issue.

[royjess]

That ship is really stunning and it's not even finished yet

[booth]

thank you Royjess, there is still a long way to go!

[booth]

Well that’s it for now. Up to issue 101 and collect the next batch in July. From the issues on the official site I will be starting on the masts and side cannon.

The front isn’t perfect and I may revisit to correct the curved wire and certainly have to re-do the lower transom.

Oh well

Bye for now

[steve131]

Great work ,lovely model Best order part you want now in case it sells out K

[booth]

The bad news is that I will have to re-position the lower transom as it clearly is too close to the upper one.





Oh well……..

[booth]

Operation is now underway. I used the supports to get the right distance between the two transoms




Now I could do with some advice. All along I have been using the magazine covers and publicity for my paint scheme. Now in issue 102 we are told to paint right up to the lower strip of beading.
A quandary, what should I do? Carry on as I am or re-paint as told?

For this argument the Bretagne, Hermione and SOTS all have white up to the lower beading.

Help!

[number1]

If your happy with how far up to the beading line you have painted I would leave it how it is. Up to you!

[booth]

Thanks, I shall ponder.

I would like to know how it was in reality.

I just have a feeling that the instructions are simply to make it easier perhaps?