Mark's BotY entry

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Re: Mark's BotY entry

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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Mark » Tue Jan 21, 2020 5:29 am

Thanks for that info Casper. Very useful. The Cratex sticks are designed for this, but sadly they don't go below 1/4" that I can find, so way over scale. There are some unbranded rubber grinding tools for Dremel type tools that I may try. I think you might be right with the need for a press drill type stand to get a regular finish.

Here's a few photos to whet the appetite.

Nice shiny box! Mind, you expect a nice box, the price these kits are!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Simple box label. No box art, but then, it's not like these need to have shelf appeal!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The box contents. The body is resin. Most of the rest of the kit is white metal. The wheel rims are turned ally, with photo-etched spokes. It's only the 1/12 scale kit that has 'proper' spoked wheels. Rubber tyres of course, and a few other bits n pieces.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

MFH's instructions are quite good.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Here are the main parts for the engine, which is where I'll start.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr
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Mark

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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Mark » Tue Jan 21, 2020 5:36 am

The 1/43 kit is somewhat smaller. Still a nice box.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Kit contents. White metal for the body. Again, turned ally wheel rims and etched spokes, and a few other bits n pieces.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The larger number of smaller pieces (or so it seems) makes the kit look much more intimidating!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

This smaller kit isn't part of the competition entry, but built in parallel as an interesting comparison.
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Morris » Tue Jan 21, 2020 9:17 am

First time I've seen one 'in da flesh' (OOB) :D - sings detailing if with just polishing and light washes :o :shock:
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby casper » Tue Jan 21, 2020 3:17 pm

wow 8-) Great photos Mark.
The parts look amazing and cleaner than I thought they would be, So much detail and looking at the real engine its pretty much Identical.
My Dad was an engineer and worked for The Austin Motor company among others back in the 60,s as a tool maker and hated engine turning all over his work. He used to say it not finished until its hand scraped so he would spend hours working on every surface and checking with engineers blue, a long leborious process as you know but this showed the workmanship. Sadly now we live in a throw away culture. I still have some of his tools (still sharp) and marking out table surface plate, he would even refurbish those.

Cant wait to see how you tackle the jeweling, rubber pencil sounds a good way of doing it but you would have to get it centred in the drill press. I wouldn't use toothpaste though just a very fine polishing compound :think: would Tamiya fine paste do the job.
How big is the dash and firewall, any chance of a pic when you get chance.
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Mark » Tue Jan 21, 2020 5:19 pm

Lovely story about your dad. I love hearing about the old craftsmen and the pride they had in their work. Sadly, it's something rarely seen these days.

Here's a photo of the dashes from both kits, with the traditional OX cube for scale. The 1/20 kit is a reasonably size, the 1/43 is quite tiny!!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby royjess » Tue Jan 21, 2020 9:26 pm

Great choice Mark. Looks like great kits. I'm looking forward to seeing both of these take shape.

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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby steve131 » Fri Jan 24, 2020 7:59 pm

Beautiful car ,going to be great blog. Paint going to be hard work getting a rich red finish .
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Mark » Sat Jan 25, 2020 3:47 am

steve131 wrote:Beautiful car ,going to be great blog. Paint going to be hard work getting a rich red finish .


I’ve got the right Zero paints colour and some 2k clear. Fingers crossed!
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Mark » Thu Feb 06, 2020 6:14 am

Right, let's get this show on the road!

Just a little tinkering to start with, to get the feel of the kit.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The engine fits in the chassis almost perfectly. However, the engine doesn't actually fit together very well at all.

And let's introduce my new favourite tool. A sanding jig from Dspiae. Like all their other stuff, not particularly cheap, but very good quality. It's excellent for sanding faces square without getting the usual rounding that I can't avoid, not matter how careful I am!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

On to the engine. This is just being assembled with super glue to get the fit problems sorted out. Then it will get dunked in acetone to dissolve the super glue, have the mould lines removed, polished, etc. The is 2 evenings work. All the main parts are fitted, although I didn't bother gluing some parts on as they don't affect anything else. I didn't touch the etched parts at all.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Next comes the intake manifold, supercharger, etc. Those parts make the engine seem like a good fit :angry-banghead: This could be a looooong project!
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby casper » Thu Feb 06, 2020 6:32 pm

Super detailed engine.
I like the sanding jig, handy tool that.
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Mark » Fri Feb 07, 2020 6:54 pm

Have to admit, the engine does look good. I'm looking forward to seeing it polished up!

Here is the supercharger intake. This took an evening, as the fit is atrocious!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Here's the engine with the major parts completed. Obviously a lot of work still to do, but I need the main parts completed so I can get the fit right.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

And the other side of the engine.

However, when the engine and fire wall are placed in the chassis.... well, something didn't go to plan!!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The engine is screwed to the chassis, so no room for adjustment there. The fire wall seems to be in the correct position, so it looks like the supercharger isn't aligned quite right somewhere. This is why everything is just superglued together ready to be dropped into acetone, when it will al fall apart again! (I hope!!)

I do plan on soldering some of the kit together. Partly for strength in places, and some parts, like the supercharger inlet manifold, to fill the gaps and sill let it polish up! I've never tried soldering white metal before, although I can wield a soldering iron for electrical work. I managed to find a temp controlled soldering iron on ebay, that goes down to 50C, so should be fine for the job. Wish me luck!!
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby number1 » Fri Feb 07, 2020 9:54 pm

Good luck with the soldering, your a braver man than me :laughing-rolling:
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby number1 » Sun Feb 09, 2020 8:58 pm

http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/new/archives/19253
Hi Mark, came across this, any good for whar you need?
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Mark » Mon Feb 10, 2020 12:02 pm

number1 wrote:http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/new/archives/19253
Hi Mark, came across this, any good for whar you need?


Oh, it may well be! Thanks!
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Mark » Wed Feb 12, 2020 6:46 pm

This was the carb side of the supercharger inlet! Definitely something astray!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

However, pulling it all apart (Who remembers the word "prise" in the old Haynes manuals :lol: ) and starting assembly from the firewall, it all went together much better.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The problem is this joint here. There shouldn't be a gap between the two sections of casing. So it's still not quite right, but it's close enough for me to work with. I'll carry on with the test assembly to make sure the firewall is in the right place before doing anything irreversible.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Right, on to the front suspension. I've fitted the main parts, but not the leaf spring. However, it all went a bit cock-eyed, as I didn't get the hole in the right hand upright straight, and I drilled all the way through by mistake! Doh!!!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Ok, how to fix this mess? I filled the hole with low temp solder, and redrilled it. The second attempt was much better.

As you can see, there are a couple of bits of photo etch fitted. These are part of the main structure, which the chassis tubes connect to.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

It was still a pain to get right. The solder is harder than the white metal and doesn't take a thread as easily.

I'll explain how I did the soldering later. It was actually not too difficult. However, a low temperature soldering iron is essential unless you want to risk turning your model into a silver puddle! I got one off eBay, which is a cheapish, Chinese thing. You can adjust the temperature, and it has a nice digital readout. I'm not sure what it's supposed to be indicating, but it's certainly not the tip temperature! Set it to 195C, and the tip gets to about 140C. Perfect for soldering white metal. Fortunately I have a thermocouple thermometer, so I can measure the actual tip temp. This is also a Chinese cheapie, but seems to work remarkably well. The solder melts at 70C, and MFH's white metal melts at about 190C. 140C is hot enough to get the solder flowing nicely, without risking melting the white metal. Anyway, photos and a step by step guide when I solder some of the parts of the kit together.
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Morris » Wed Feb 12, 2020 7:13 pm

This is modelling that I'm not familiar with, working with white metal and solder (shiver) - :?
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby steve131 » Wed Feb 12, 2020 8:25 pm

:think: This kit and the Lancia seem to be fighting you quite a bit ,thought these were supposed to be the bees knees of kits. Were they bad kits or are they meant to test your skills :?:
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Mark » Thu Feb 13, 2020 3:12 am

Yeah, they are giving me a bit of a run-around! These kits are the bees knees in terms of detail. However, they are notorious for being challenging to build. The white metal is soft and bends easily. The resin bodies are beautifully thin, but resin can bend as well. Fortunately both these problems can be fixed with either a bit of heat on the resin, or brute force on the white metal. You have to drill out the locating holes, and the fit of the parts varies from 'Lego' to 'fits where it touches.' They certainly aren't Tamiya!!

The results are worth the effort though. They turn into stunning models, and often subject just not available elsewhere. Have a look at the MFH builder's Facebook page, and there are some beautiful builds posted. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1927253640884110/

Also have a look at Les's and my Brough Superior builds on here.
viewtopic.php?f=39&t=7383&hilit=brough
viewtopic.php?f=39&t=7312&hilit=brough

Bees knees, or worst kits in the world? You decide :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby Mark » Thu Feb 13, 2020 3:26 am

Here's a link to the soldering iron I'm using. I can't remember which seller I got it from. Perfect, as long as you don't put too much trust in the temp setting. Let's see how well it does on larger parts, which will be a bigger test of its capabilities.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WEP-60W-Sold ... 3420974224

This is the temperature probe I'm using. I got mine locally in China, but it's the same model.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TM-902C-K-Ty ... SwKZtdpBTA
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Re: Mark's BotY entry

Postby chill » Thu Feb 13, 2020 10:49 am

Wow - this is amazing. Have a K from me just for opening the box really.

I am really amazed at this.
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