Mark's Shelby Super Snake

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Mark's Shelby Super Snake

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Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Jan 28, 2020 6:09 am

I've managed to make a start on my Super Snake, so without further do.....

Pack one, stage 1 - the front facia.

We start nice and easy with the front grill. Can't go wrong with this. Two pieces, two screws!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Looks good from the front.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

On to the front bumper (or should I say fender - after all, it's an American car :lol: ) Still easy going. Make sure you get the bumps to the top!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

As per the instructions, the head lamps are inserted from the front, and screwed in from the rear. Make sure you get the let and right the right way round. I found these screws just a little tight. Rather than force them home, I put a smear of Vaseline in the hole and they go much easier. Work matter, not harder! :lol:

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

They too look good from the front.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Your model should look something like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 2 - the driver's door

These are the bits we get.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

This is really easy. The mirror is slotted in and screwed in from the inside. This screw is going into metal, and a smear of Vaseline made it easy to get it nice and tight.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The door handle is also screwed in from the inside. ~This screw is going into plastic, so is easy. It's got a small thread, so be careful not to strip it.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The completed stage 2 looks like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 3. The door window and hinge.

These are the parts you get.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The window goes on with 3 screws. Watch the little quarter light handle. It's very fragile and easy to break off! Ask me how I know :laughing-rolling: I used one of these new fangled UV glue pens to fix it. Worked really well, just apply the glue to the underside so it doesn't show. You could use super glue, but I'd use a non-fogging variety to save any risk of fogging the glass. I had a UV pen, I didn't have any non-fogging super glue, hence my choice of weapon.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The hinge is held in place with a plastic plate. Be careful to get the hinge the right way round. The flat goes to the bottom and the right-angled corner to the top. I've angled the hinge so you can see a bit more clearly.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The finished stage should look something like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 4. The door card.

These are the parts you get.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Things start to get a little trickier now. The door handle goes in the door handle bracket like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Then you have to insert the door handle through the hole in the main panel, and wiggle it all into place. It's a bit fiddly!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

This is what it looks like from the other side.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Then screw it all together. Curse because the handle has just sprung out of place, and try again......

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The window handle and bottom trim are child's play.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Now the door card is screwed to the door. Again, I put some vaseline into the holes (as I do with most self tappers into metal) just to be sure they were going ip tight.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Finally, the upper trims clipped into place. This is a bit tricky as you have to slide it under the door handle. However, the door handle does felt enough so it isn't a problem.

That's the end of the work on the door for now.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr
Cheers
Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby casper » Tue Jan 28, 2020 4:14 pm

Some nice texture to the black door trim, looks really impressive.
The hinge reminds me of the DB5 door hinge, looks similar.
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Jan 28, 2020 4:43 pm

Stage 5. The driver's seat.

These are the bits we get.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The silver frame is screwed to the back rest with 4 screws. They go in the corners. Don't get them in the wrong holes.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Then the cushion goes on this. The instructions tell you to glue the part with super glue. However, I found that it stayed on with a push fit. However, I'd suggest something like UHU or some other general purpose glue as this will give you plenty of time to push the parts together.

Imagehttps://flic.kr/p/2ijP1Qm by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 6. The rest of the driver's seat.

Just two parts in this stage (plus the screws)

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Place the backrest on the seat base.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Now fit the cushion and screw it in from below. Simples!!!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

That's it for this pack. Now we have to wait.......
Cheers
Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby steve131 » Tue Jan 28, 2020 7:43 pm

Good idea storing the front in its plastic packaging , been looking at paint scheme and it's just shouting scratch me, hope you get chassis soon to hang it all on quick.
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby royjess » Tue Jan 28, 2020 9:29 pm

Looks like a great Partwork, the detailing looks great
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby casper » Wed Jan 29, 2020 9:25 am

Seat looks very good, just the right colour and shade. We're the original seat covers in a vinyl or leather.
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Wed Jan 29, 2020 12:13 pm

The original seats are vinyl. The finish on them does look quite realistic.
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Mar 03, 2020 4:25 pm

I've received my copy of Pack 2 now. This is stages 7 to 14, and includes the other door, front seat, and rear chassis with fuel tank.

Without further ado, stage 7.

These are the parts you get. The door skin and door handle. No wing mirror on the passenger side.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The handle fits like this

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

and is screwed in from the back. Nothing too taxing so far. :lol:

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The completed stage looks like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

State 8 gives you the window and hinge

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

I placed a tiny smear of Vaseline in all the screw holes in the door skin. I don't know if they're needed, but it makes it easier to drive them home, and doesn't do any harm, even if they're not needed. So it's easier to apply the Vaseline to all of them while the screws are exposed than it is to unscrew them if they are a bit tight.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The window goes on easily.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Followed by the hinge. Again, take care to get it the right way up, and flick the hinge up so that the screw is easier to drive home fully.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The finished stage.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 9 gives us the door card, handles and trim.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

I found a bit of flash on the lower trim. The trim could have been forced home just by tightening the screws, but it's a better job to file it smooth.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

A sanding stick made short work of it.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

That nice warm feeling you get when a job's well done!!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The door handle fits in the bracket like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

And everything is screwed from the back. The smaller screws are a bit fiddly. Fit them both loosely, before tightening them up, and be careful as they are easy to strip. However, if you do strip them, just put a dribble of superglue on the part to keep everything together.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

It should look like this from the proper side.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Here it is with the window winder in place as well.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Now the top trim goes in. I levered the handle out gently with the screwdriver to make it easier to get the trim in behind it.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

It fits like this. I found it easier to get the bottom clips to line up first. Once they are lined up and inserted, push the top clips in. It took a good firm push, and this is the end of the stage. The completed door looks like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr
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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Mar 03, 2020 4:37 pm

On to the seat with stage 10.

These are the parts you get.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The trim is screwed to the frame with 4 screws. The instructions point out which holes to use. Get the wrong ones and the cushion won't fit!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The cushion is just pushed into place.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 11 gives you the seat squab.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Put the back in place...

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Then add the cushion.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

It's held in place by four screwed screwed in from the bottom. You'll notice that there is a R on the bottom, so you know which seat is which.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The finished seat looks just like it did before I screwed the base together :lol:

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr
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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Mar 03, 2020 4:53 pm

Stage 12 is the rear chassis. Nothing to do with this stage, just look at it. Admire it. Be impressed by the size, and imagine how big this monster is going to be.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 13 gives you the bottom of the fuel tank.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

You can test fit this to see how it fits to the chassis. It locates snugly, but doesn't clip in.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

It fits snugly, but doesn't clip in. So, not much to do until the next stage arrives. Fortunately, the next stage is in the box, so you haven't got long to wait! :laughing-rolling:

Stage 14 gives you the tank filler tube and tank top.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Fit the filler tube. This screws in from the bottom.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Then the tank top is located on the chassis. The chassis and tank parts all locate positively. Make sure you ge the chassis the right way up. I don't think you can get it wrong, but to be perfectly honest, I didn't try.

Then it's screwed together with 4 screws.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

This is where the instructions end, but this wouldn't be the Partwork Model Forum if we didn't enhance the model with a modification or two.
I'm not sure whether the screw heads will be visible on the finished model. But, if they are, they stand out being black agains the silver tank. So I simply painted the heads with Tamiya XF-16 flat aluminium. As you can see, it matched almost perfectly.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

That's it until the next stage.

You can still order the model directly from Agora's web site. https://www.agoramodels.com
Cheers
Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby steve131 » Tue Mar 03, 2020 8:26 pm

:clap: Great work looking good very jell . :lol: Saw this build on Wayne and wondered about the screws in fuel tank :think: :naughty: and was going to ask you ,and last post sort of answers it, don't suppose you will see more anyway when bodywork goes on, but great mod/ fix.
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Wed Mar 04, 2020 4:42 pm

steve131 wrote::clap: Great work looking good very jell . :lol: Saw this build on Wayne and wondered about the screws in fuel tank :think: :naughty: and was going to ask you ,and last post sort of answers it, don't suppose you will see more anyway when bodywork goes on, but great mod/ fix.



Thanks Steve. From what I can tell from various photos, etc. two of the screws will be visible, and two will be hidden under the spare wheel (assuming it has a spare).
I will be tinkering with the kit to add bits and pieces here and there. It won't be anything that is particularly challenging, but painting details here and there, adding a few details that can be done with plasticard, wire, etc. Generally, stuff you can find round the house or you might expect to have as general modelling supplies. I.e. Things that anybody can do if they want to.
Cheers
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Wed Mar 04, 2020 4:50 pm

Mark wrote:
steve131 wrote::clap: Great work looking good very jell . :lol: Saw this build on Wayne and wondered about the screws in fuel tank :think: :naughty: and was going to ask you ,and last post sort of answers it, don't suppose you will see more anyway when bodywork goes on, but great mod/ fix.



Thanks Steve. From what I can tell from various photos, etc. two of the screws will be visible, and two will be hidden under the spare wheel (assuming it has a spare).
I will be tinkering with the kit to add bits and pieces here and there. It won't be anything that is particularly challenging, but painting details here and there, adding a few details that can be done with plasticard, wire, etc. Generally, stuff you can find round the house or you might expect to have as general modelling supplies. I.e. Things that anybody can do if they want to.


I found a video on Agora's Youtube channel. You will be able to see some of the screws, so a touch of silver paint is well worth while!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAq-yqhVR5s
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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Sun Mar 29, 2020 5:13 pm

I've got my grubby mitts on pack 3 now! We continue with the rear chassis and suspension.

Stage 15, rear main chassis.

This is the part you get.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Goes like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

A touch of Vaseline in the screw holes, and 4 screws later, we're finished.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 16. The rear floor pan.

This is the part you get.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The instructions say that this will need to come off again to fit the exhausts. So I screwed it on, then slackened the screws a turn so everything is nice and easy to remove and refit at some later stage. 9 screws to hold this part!!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

There is a pack of MD01 screws that you save for later.
The finished stage looks like this. All nice and easy.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 17. The start of the rear axle.

You get the lower half of the rear axle and the differential front cover.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Drive 2 screws into the front cover. These can be driven home fully.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Then test fit it in the rear axle. It's not glued, but held in place by the screw heads.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

It looks like this. Note the orientation the housing.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 18 completes the rear axle and gives us some springs!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Put the front cover in place and screw the two halves of the axle together. Make sure you get the cover the right way up!!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The springs are placed on the rear axle as shown. These springs are to give the model working suspension. The real car has leaf springs, which are fitted later in this pack. However, the leaf springs are far too weak to support the weight of the model. Therefore these are fitted, nicely hidden so they can't be seen on the finished model, so the we have a working suspension.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

A bit of masking tape stops the springs falling off when you turn the axle aside down to fit it.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The springs fit like this (masking tape removed for clarity). As the instructions remind us, be careful not to break the fuel filler pipe!

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

....and screwed in from the top.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The finished stage looks like this. Your suspension should work.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 19, the left wheel arch.

We get the wheel arch.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Three screws and we're finished.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 20. The left leaf spring.

We get a few more parts this time.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Follow the instructions to make sure you get the right parts the right way round. The pin goes in the front shackle like this. I didn't have a pair of pliers large enough to squeeze the pin in, so I tapped it in with a hammer. It doesn't matter which side you push it in from. However, it should go in easily. If it doesn't, you may not have it aligned properly.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The pin goes in flush like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Repeat with the rear shackle, making sure everything is the right way round.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Then fit the complete leaf spring to the chassis. It was a bit tricky to get the shackles into the holes in the chassis, but they do go without too much trouble once you get them aligned properly. The front shackle went in, then the rear didn't want to go. So I took it out and fitted the rear, then the front didn't want to go in! Then, the front first again, and it went in no problem. Oddly enough, I went though the same dance with the other side..... Anyway, they did go without much force once you get them right.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The spring plate looked like it was going to be tricky, be went on with no problem at all. A pair of tweezers makes fitting the screws easier if your screwdriver isn't magnetic.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The finished stage.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 21, the right wheel arch.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Three screws later the finished stage looks like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Stage 22, the right leaf spring.

The parts you get,

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The process is exactly the same as stage 20, so I won't bother repeating myself. The finished stage looks like this.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The model is starting to take shape now. The functional springs are quite inconspicuous. You certainly get a feel for how big an impressive the finished model is going to be.

Order yours from Agora Models
https://www.agoramodels.com/super-snake/

I see on their web site that they have a new model car coming out in the spring, which is just around the corner. No idea what it's going to be.....
Cheers
Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Wed May 13, 2020 5:18 pm

I've now got pack 4 of Agora's Shelby Super Snake. Most of this issue is completing the chassis, although we make a start on the steering mechanism.

Stage 23. The middle chassis.

ImageUntitled

This is simply fitted with 4 screws, lubricated with Vaseline of course.

The completed stage looks like this.

ImageUntitled

Stage 24. The front floor pan.

This is what you get.

ImageUntitled

This is held in place with 9 screws. This instructions remind us that this will need to be removed to fit the exhaust pipes, so I screwed it firmly into place, then backed the screws off 1/2 a turn so they will come out easily.

When you fit the part in place, make sure the tabs go down flush with the chassis. Also be very careful tightening these screws as they will strip the threads very easily.

ImageUntitled

The finished stage looks like this.

ImageUntitled

Stage 25 is the drive shaft.

It comes in two halves.

ImageUntitled

and goes together like this.

ImageUntitled

It's fitted like this. Note that the round pin goes int eh gearbox, and the flat, T shaped tab goes in the rear diff housing. Be careful not to damage the fuel filler pipe while the model is upside down.

ImageUntitled

Stage 26 gives us the gearbox and crossmember.

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The gearbox goes in like this, and is screwed from the top.

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Followed by the crossmember.

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Stage 27 gives us the front chassis.

ImageUntitled

This goes on easily with 4 screws. This is getting BIG now. And it's getting difficult to photograph in my work space while keeping the clutter out of shot!

ImageUntitled

Stage 28, the front fender splash guards. I think I'd call these the wheel arch closing plates, but it is an American car!

ImageUntitled

This is the right hand side. Note the orientation. Usually I use the Agora provided screwdriver as it's a nice comfortable tool to hold. However, a screwdriver with a longer shaft makes these parts easier to fit.

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This is the left hand side. This completes the basic chassis.

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Stage 29. The steering rods.

ImageUntitled

These go together with 2 screws. Watch the orientation of the parts! My first thought was to screw these up without using any Vaseline as these parts will move and you don't want them working loose. However, The screws were very tight going in, so I relented and did add a smear to the threads. The screws are still quite tight to go in, and it's not like the model is going to be played with, so I don't think there is any chance they will come loose. Back the screws off 1/4 of a turn if the arms don't move freely.

ImageUntitled

Stage 30 gives us a couple of suspension brackets and some more of the steering mechanism.

ImageUntitled

The brackets go on like this. They are identical, so it doesn't matter which side is which. [Edit - I made a mistake, they point inwards, not outwards. However, it's easy to fix. Just take then off and turn them around.]

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The steering gear goes on like this.

ImageUntitled

It's screwed from the other side, and the screw is very deep in the chassis, so a magnetised screwdriver is a must.

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The Pitman are goes on the steering rods. Again, back the screw off 1/4 turn if the arm doesn't move freely.

ImageUntitled

This completes the stage. My model now looks like this.

ImageUntitled

Here's a link to Agora's web site. https://www.agoramodels.com/super-snake/
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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Jun 02, 2020 5:58 pm

On with Pack 5.

Stage 31 gives us the stabiliser bar and lower suspension arms.

This is what we get

ImageUntitled

First off, I found that I'd got the suspension brackets on the wrong way round. Either nobody spotted it, or everybody was too polite to point out the mistake! Anyway, it's an easy matter to unscrew them and refit them the right way round. This is what they should look like.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

Place the component in position.
ImageUntitled

Put the pins in the lower suspension arms, like this.

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Squeeze home fully.

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The strut rods are screwed into the slots in the chassis. When tightened, they should still be free to slide in the slots. This is to allow the suspension to move.

ImageUntitled

Now the tie rod assembly is fitted. This just slides over the pitman arm.

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The steering rack fits under the steering gear like this.

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I taped the arms in place with masking tape to save them flapping about loose. This completes this pack.

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Stage 32 The upper suspension arms.

These are the parts we get.

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The arms are assembled with the pins. Be careful to get the parts the right way round.

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Pins driven fully home.

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Then simply screw the brackets in place. Simples!!

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This completes this stage.

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Stage 33 The front floor and gear lever.

These are the parts we get.

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The lever was taped to the underside of the floor which keeps it safe from any damage.

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The carpet is represented with flocking, and is really nice.

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One screw and we're done!

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The printing on the knob is superb!!

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To be continued......
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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Morris » Tue Jun 02, 2020 6:53 pm

Detailing and the parts quality looks top notch. I've signed up for the AC Cobra - Hope they give the same attention on it :)
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:30 pm

Morris wrote:Detailing and the parts quality looks top notch. I've signed up for the AC Cobra - Hope they give the same attention on it :)


I'm looking forward to that one too! One of the most beautiful cars ever made.


On to stage 34. Here we fit the pedals and switches.

These are the parts we get.

Image

First off, the inner side walls are fitted to the floor.

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They are secured with three screws each.

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Now we move on to the switches. These are a little bit fiddly, but not too bad. Make sure you get them the right way round; the instructions are clear. They just sit int he bracket and are a little loose. This is normal, as stated in the instructions, and they work just fine when that is finished.

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Then place the bracket on the underside of the floor, pick up the switch that just fell out, and try again! :lol: When they are in position, fix with the screw.

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Make sure that the buttons are pocking into the holes in the floor. Not a great photo, but it's a small black button recessed in a small hole surrounded by black flocking! That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it!!

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The pedals go on nice and easily. They didn't work the switches until the screws were tight. However, once the screws are tighten (don't over tighten and strip them) they work perfectly and have a nice satisfying click.

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This is the completed stage.

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Stage 35. The dashboard.

Here's what we get.

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The fuse cover fits like this.

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Just fitted with one screw in the back.

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There is an inset photo on the 'completed stage' page on the instructions saying that there may be a carpeted peg in a hole. This will be where they put a plug in the screw hole so it doesn't get filled up with flock. Mine was clear, but I guess there may be the odd one missed, so it's worth checking this carefully.

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Here is the dash resting on the floor.

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Stage 36. This is a nice stage where we add some 60's chrome to the dash!!

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I added the stickers with a pair of tweezers.

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They end up looking like this.

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Give the dial glasses a polish and place them in the trim.

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Then put the trim in place.

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Now add the dashboard strip, and screw it in place. You need to push it on straight or the bushes for the screws are reluctant to go in their holes.

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Apply the G.T. 500 sticker carefully.

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Screw this in place thus. I found the MP05 screws were a bit long to go in easily, so I changed them for some spare MP03 screws from the spares box.

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Here's the completed stage.

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Stage 37 is the 60's style radio, dials and a glove box (Who's going to be first to make some 1/8 scale driving gloves ?)

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The radio goes on first. Again, this has some lovely fine printing on it.

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As before, stickers represent the dials.

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Glass in place.

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Bezels screwed in place. As the instructions hint, the MP05 screw did strip the thread, but a spare MP01 screw held firmly.

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The dials screwed in place.

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The glove box inner screws in place easily.

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Then the cover just clips into place.

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Finally screw it into place to the floor.

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Here's the completed stage.

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Stage 38 completes this pack with the rear floor and the front seat belts. Only lap belts in this car.

Incidentally, modern seat belts came in 1958 when Swedish engineer Nils Bohlin invented the three-point seatbelt for Volvo. Volvo opened up the patent so all car manufacturers could fit these style belts, which have saved countless lives. The original lap belt was a British invention the 1800s.

Anyway, I digress. These are the parts we get.

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The anchors just clip into the floor. There were quite tight and needed a firm push to get in. Be careful to keep them straight as you push or you'll risk bending the tabs,.

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Both anchors fitted then the front and rear floor sections are screwed together.

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Feed the belts through he slots in the floor. Tweezers definitely help with this!! Make sure you get the belt the Shelby logo facing upwards.

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Fit the metal buckles over the posts like this.

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Masking tape is added carefully as suggested by their expert.

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I also taped the wires to the bottom of the floor as a temporary measure to stop them getting tangles or snagged.

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This completes the pack. I do like the way Agora are building up the model is a sensible order. Not jumping about like many other partwork series do.

The model is available from Agora, and they are offering a quick start package whereby you can order the first 4 packs immediately, and at a bit of a discount.

https://www.agoramodels.com/super-snake/#buy-shelby
Cheers
Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby steve131 » Wed Jun 03, 2020 6:12 pm

8-) Very nice didn't see your deliberate mistake :lol: Haven't driven in America for yonks was wondering what fourth pedal was then remembered :doh: .Hats off to Volvo think they have saved all our lives :clap: . Agree about build sequence being good ,watching Ferrari Competizioni build shaking head :lol:
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Morris » Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:48 pm

It's beautiful :o :shock: :o
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