Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Agora's first offering. The Shelby Mustang GT500 Super Snake

Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Thu Jun 04, 2020 2:25 am

steve131 wrote:8-) Very nice didn't see your deliberate mistake :lol: Haven't driven in America for yonks was wondering what fourth pedal was then remembered :doh: .Hats off to Volvo think they have saved all our lives :clap: . Agree about build sequence being good ,watching Ferrari Competizioni build shaking head :lol:


I was puzzled by the 4th pedal. I thought it was a parking brake, but there is an umbrella handle under the dash which is also usually a parking brake.
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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby royjess » Thu Jun 04, 2020 9:03 am

I tried to google what the 4th pedal is four, it might be what they call the dead pedal, it does nothing, it just a foot rest.
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby John b » Fri Jun 05, 2020 10:58 pm

Isn't the 4th pedal a line lock, so only locks the front wheels?

Makes burnouts easier! :auto-layrubber:
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Jul 07, 2020 4:23 pm

I've got pack 6 now. Stage 39 gives us the floor mats and fire extinguishers.

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The front floor mats fit like this. I found that these required a lot of effort to get the mats to locate in the holes. I cleared out the holes as recommended in the instructions, but it still too a very firm push with a flat screwdriver blade to get the pegs firmly in the holes.

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This is what it should look like from the bottom.

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The rear mats go like this. The instructions say to put the long strip at the rear, but they don't fit properly. There is a large hole and peg, and a small hole and peg, so they only go one way. Mine went with the long strip at the front. You could drill out the smaller holes if you wished and fit the mats the right way round according to the instructions. However, it's a very small detail, so I'm happy to fit them as below.

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Then the seats are fitted with 2 screws for each seat, and the seatbelts can then clip int he buckles. Just be careful not to trap the belts under the seat when you fix the seats.
The seats are marked with L & R so no excuses for getting them wrong!

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On to the fire extinguisher. This clips together as shown.

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Tweezers help to apply the sticker accurately.

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And the whole thing clips in between the seats nicely.

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This completes the stage.

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Stage 40 gives us the rear seat support.

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This clips in place fairly well.

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Then screws in place with 4 screws. Make sure the centre pip is properly located.

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The completed stage looks like this.

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Stage 41 gives us the interior rear platform

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Three screws and we're done.

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The completed stage looks like this.

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Stage 42 gives us the left rear interior panel.

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This is a decorative accessory. That's probably what I'd call it if I didn't know what it was either!! Anyway, it's shiny, looks nice, and screws in with a screw from the back!

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The seat panel release (folding rear seat!) is also screwed in from the back.

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It's fitted with three screws.

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The completed stage looks like this.

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Stage 43 gives us the left upper interior panel.

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The decorative panel fits like this, and is screwed in place with 2 screws in the back.

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Then this is fixed with 1 small screw and 2 larger screws. I found it best to get all three points properly locates as best you can, then put all the screws in loosely before tightening them all.

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Here's the completed stage.

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Stage 44 gives the the trunk partition panel.

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The instructions tell you to clear any flash from the slots in the pegs, and you need to. The pegs (tenons) won't go in the holes if you don't.

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Then it clips in and fixes with three screws.

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The completed stage looks like this.

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Stage 45 gives us the start of the folding rear seat.

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The piano hinge is really nice and articulates perfectly. It's fitted in place with 3 really tine screws. Hope you remembered to magnetise your screwdriver.

The instructions say it will only go one way round, but it's not completely idiot proof. I should know, I've spent most of my career trying to make things idiot proof. Unfortunately they keep making more creative idiots! Anyway, I digress. Pay close attention to the pictures in the instructions and it's easy to get it the right way round.

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Stage 46 gives us the rest of the back seat.

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Push the two parts together firmly.

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The more tiny screws and you end up with this.

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It moves really nicely!

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This is the model at the end of this pack. Obviously the cabin is just sat in place, but it's looking really nice now.

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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Morris » Tue Jul 07, 2020 6:33 pm

Awesome assembly, Mark ! Enjoying this one...makes me look forward to the AC Cobra ....
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Aug 04, 2020 5:12 pm

Here we go with Pack 7.

Stage 47 gives us the right interior panel

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The assembly is the same as stage 42.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

When you assemble it, pay attention to making sure the back of the panel fits properly. I started at the back and worked forwards. Here's a close-up showing the rear correctly fitted. If the rear most screw holes don't line up easily, it's probably not fitted quite right.

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Then the rest pretty much falls into place.

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It should end up all fitting nicely.

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Then clip the seat in place. The instructions say to leave the front screw out, but I found that the seat clipped in easily with all the screws fitted.

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It folds down really nicely! This completes the stage.

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Stage 48. Right upper panel

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This is identical to stage 43 so I won't repeat myself. This is the completed stage.

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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Aug 04, 2020 5:46 pm

Stage 49 Lower dash panel, roll bar and seat belts.

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The lower dash panel is tricky to fit in situ, but it's very easy to remove the dashboard. Just remove 2 screws.

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Then the panel can be fitted very easily.

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From the front, then it's a simple matter to refit the dash.

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Next the seat belts and roll bar.

First the belts are fitted into the retractor housings. This must be one of the first cars to be fitted with inertia reel seat belts.

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Then the housing is screwed to the roll bar. Repeat for the other belt.

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Then the roll bar is fitted to the cabin. The pegs go in the holes easy enough, but they do need to be straight.

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The ends of the belts go in the slots in the floor. This proofed to be easier than I expected.

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They didn't seem to located very firmly on the pegs.

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A bit of masking tape made sure they weren't going anywhere!

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Finally, bring the belts over the corners of the seats. This was a little bit of a stretch. This completes the issue.

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Stage 50 Rear seat and belts.

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The inner belts are fitted thus.

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The outer belts are fitted int eh same manner, then this is subassembly is screwed in place. This completes this stage.

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Stage 51 The rear platform.

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The two main parts clip together.

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Then this is screwed in place.

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The two setback locks are screwed in place.

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This completes this stage.

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Cheers
Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Aug 04, 2020 6:12 pm

On to the wheels next with stage 52 and the front left wheel.

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The first wheel is wrestled onto the tyre! The instructions are pretty good with the process. Boiling water, then let the tyre soak for a few minutes. Pick them up with tweezers. Dry the excess water off with a tissue, and then work the tyre onto the wheel. Be careful not to catch the tyre valve. It looks quite delicate.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The hub goes on to the brake disc cover.

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Put the brake disc in place.

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Then the disc is held in place with the caliper. This is secured with an MD04 screw. This didn't seem to hold very securely, so I reinforced it with a drop of superglue around the screw head. This wicked into the assembly and it all seemed a lot more rigid.

ImageUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

I pre-threaded the hub with the MD02 screw, with some Vaseline applied. This makes it much easier to fit the wheel. It's difficult to fully thread the screw with the wheel in place.

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The fitted wheel from the back....

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....and from the front. The decorative centre is pushed in place, although not too firmly in case I want to remove the wheels again. This completes the stage.

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Stage 53 is the front right wheel and tyre.

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Aug 04, 2020 6:33 pm

Stage 54, silencer and exhaust pipes.

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This assembly is a little tricky. Firstly, loosely assemble the silencer. It need to be loose enough sot he can fiddle the pipes in the holes. Then fit the right intermediate pipe and straight pipe in the right holes, and tighten the right screw.

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Now insert the left pipes and tighen the left screw in the silencer.

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Now take the mufflers and scrape the chrome off the pegs....

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....and superglue them in place. Removing the chrome plating serves 2 purposes. It gives you a stronger glued joint (chrome plating doesn't take glue very well at all) and also helps the mufflers fit better.

This completes the stage.

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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Aug 04, 2020 6:53 pm

Stage 55 The front right wheel

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This assembly is the same as stage 52, so I won't repeat myself. After all, we can all copy and paste! LOL!!

This is the completed stage.

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Lay the wheels and steering rack as they are fitted to ensure you get them the right way round. It's also worth rethreading the screw holes, using some Vaseline to make assembly easier.

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Screw the steering arms to the tie rods.

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Here's a close up of the left wheel.

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and the right wheel.

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Then the hubs are secured to the upper and lower suspension arms. When positioning the steering rack and tie rods, make sure the rack and pitman arm are correctly fitted. You can refer back to stage 29 for more details.

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This is the upper suspension arm.

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The front wheels and suspension should now look like this.

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The model looks like this at the end of pack 7.

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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Morris » Tue Aug 04, 2020 7:59 pm

Beautiful! :clap:
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:37 am

Thanks Morris. It’s coming on really nicely.
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby royjess » Wed Aug 05, 2020 8:40 am

I have to agree, it's coming along nicely and looking beautiful :mrgreen:
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby steve131 » Sat Aug 08, 2020 7:12 pm

Lovely model is there still a gap in stage 48 right upper panel or is it not so noticeable in the flesh :?:
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Tue Aug 11, 2020 6:39 pm

steve131 wrote:Lovely model is there still a gap in stage 48 right upper panel or is it not so noticeable in the flesh :?:


There is a slight gap, but it's not very noticeable in the flesh. To be perfectly honest, I hadn't noticed it before :oops: But now you've pointed it out, I can't unseen it :doh: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I'll have another look once the bodywork is fitted. I suspect that the back will be in shadow and it will be virtually invisible. However, a smear of filler and some black paint will sort it out if necessary.
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Mon Sep 14, 2020 4:39 pm

I've got Pack 8 now.

Stage 56. Rear shock and brake

This is what we get

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First off, assemble the shock cylinder to the mounting bracket with the pin. This one goes very easily. It just took a light squeeze with a pair of pliers.

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Remove the spring plate. (On the other side I discovered you can actually tithe shock quite easily without removing the plate)

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Fit the shock cylinder assembly. Note that this only goes one way round. It's obviously wrong if you get it wrong. However, it's impossible to photo as it's buried too deep and too dark.

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Fit the shock piston.

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Put it all back together. Job done!

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You can test fit the brake drum, but there's little point as it's all loose and floppy at this stage.

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This completes the stage.

Stage 57, left rear wheel.

Another tyre wrestling session.

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Pop the brake drum in place....

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...and fit the wheel. This is much easier to screw in place as the axle is plastic, not metal.

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Three wheels on my wagon!

Stage 58, right rear suspension and brake.

Similar parts to stage 56.

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I did this side without removing the plate. It goes easily.

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Stage 59, the penultimate tyre wresting match!!

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Then fit the wheel.

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Hurray!! Now we have all four wheels fitted.
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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Morris » Mon Sep 14, 2020 8:45 pm

Nice - like the wheels. Like the model, :D :clap:
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Thu Sep 17, 2020 5:10 pm

Stage 60, the exhaust system

This is what we get

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The first job is to remove the rear floor pan.

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Then wiggle the exhaust system into place, and screw it in place with a total of 6 screws. The exhaust went in OK, but it was a bit fiddly getting all the screw holes lined up. Tip. Get all the screws in loosely before tightening any of them. It's an old engineering trick. It allows the parts to move a bit making it easier to get the last couple of screws in.

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Then put the floor pan back. You also need to ensure all the other floor pan screws are tight as well.

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Now fit the 3 parts of the exhaust system together.

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Now clip the resonators into the rear assembly, then screw them in place from the top of the model.

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Now finish the assembly by screwing the front pipes to the floor panel.

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Tis completes the stage, and the exhaust system for now.
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Mark

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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Morris » Thu Sep 17, 2020 8:42 pm

That exhaust system really catches the eye...nice work. :clap:
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Re: Mark's Shelby Super Snake

Postby Mark » Sun Sep 20, 2020 9:00 am

Thanks Morris. It went easier than I expected.

Stage 61, the steering wheel. This one is a little tricky to assemble at times.

This is what we get.

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The first job is the hammer the pinion onto the shaft. This needs to go all the way down, or the cockpit tub won't fit onto the chassis properly. Go on, ask me how I know.....
If you can see any hint of the flat on the shaft, you need to give it another tap or two. The shaft seems pretty strong, but keep it completely vertical, and give it firm taps, but you're not trying to ring the bell at the fairground game! Several medium taps is much safer than a few hard hits.

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The push button goes on the column cover like this, and you'll need to bend the wires to get it to fit. Again, be firm, but not violent. This photo is from a little later in the assembly, but it shows the switch position well.

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Now insert the shaft and feed the wire down the side of the side of the cover. Note that it goes outside the screw lug.

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Add the other half of the cover, and screw it all up. Again, be careful not to trap the wire, and make sure the switch is properly seated.

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Add the steering wheel. It just pushes on. (Excuse the Tardis pencil holder. It was all I could find to hold the column to take a decent photo. 3D printers are great though!)

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Then push the horn push on. Again, it just clips in. You can also put the horn push on the steering wheel and then add the two parts. That's actually slightly easier.
Now check that you can feel the click of the button as you push the horn push. If not, pull the steering wheel off and reseat the parts. You seem to have to get it 'just right' for it to work reliably.

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This completes the stage.

Image
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Mark

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