Rivets

How to deal with the ally skinning

Re: Rivets

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Re: Rivets

Postby BRUCE » Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:04 pm

IS IT WISE TO PAINT THE WOODEN FORMERS OF THE MODEL WHEN THERE IS GOING TO BE SOME FORM OF ALUMINIUM SKIN ADDED LATER, WOULD IT NOT BE BETTER TO HAVE A NON PAINTED SURFACE TO APPLY THE PANELS TO?

I DON'T SEE THE POINT IN PAINTING THE WHOLE OF THE AIRFRAME AS THE BUILD GOES ALONG - SUCH AS THE INTERNAL WINGS WHEN THERE IS TO BE AN ALUMINIUM SKIN APPLIED LATER AND WHICH MIGHT BE APPLIED OVER A PAINTED SURFACE.

I THINK ALSO THAT WITH THE INTERIOR IT MIGHT BE A BETTER IDEA TO PUT ON SOME TYPE OF INTERIOR PLASTIC FRAME (AN INTERNAL PLASTIC SKIN FROM PLASTIC SHEET OR SUCH -AND PAINT THAT PART INTERNALLY - ALSO MIGHT HELP IN APPLYING DETAILS TO SUCH AREAS WHICH WOULD LEAVE THE EXTERNAL AREAS PAINT FREE TO ACCEPT THE ALUMINIUM SKINNING. MAYBE SOME OF YOU ARE PAINTING THE INTERNAL FRAMES BUT I THINK IF THAT WERE TO BE DONE THEN MAYBE BEST TO LEAVE UNPAINTED AREAS THAT ARE GOING TO BE USED FOR APPLYING THE ALUMINIUM SKIN.

BY THE WAY I AM STILL WAITING ON MY SECOND DELIVERY FROM HATCHETTE AND I NOTICE THAT THE WEEKLY SUBSCRIBERS FROM NEWSAGENTS ARE ON WEEK SEVEN.
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Re: Rivets

Postby snapdragon » Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:20 pm

It is wise to paint the frame during the construction as it helps seal and protect the wood. If you use acrylic paint it will not hinder any glue whatsoever. Also the paint will prevent any chemical reaction between the aluminium skin and the wood frame.

painting the frame during constuction not only helps with the above but also will help when deciding if you want to leave any panels off and which ones as you have an already painted frame so no messing about trying to get a brusg through frames and stringers.

This model is a one - off and so deserves as much care, thought and attention that you can give it.

One last little point, Bruce. Please don't type all your posts in capital letters. It is the equivalent of shouting on a forum.

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Re: Rivets

Postby 9JL » Wed Oct 28, 2009 1:20 am

Bruce the Lancaster does not have an internal frame,it was typical of wartime aircraft to leave them spartan ,ie stringers visible and the formers as well,the outer covering was in fact what you can see inside,my father said that scrabbling through a Lancaster with flying gear on and having to cope with that massive spar was a nightmare and those edges were sharp as well,every bit of weight saved would mean more of a bomb load,the average estimated flight time of a wartime bomber was measured in hours,days even,it was a very risky business to say the least and training accidents were many.
With modern acrylic paints these are ideal for glueing up on the top,not like enamel or cellulose which can lift,even modern auto paints are acrylic by law these days,I dont think that any problems will be experienced with the very thin covering material that will be used,think of milk bottle top type stuff and with its flexibility it will be fairly easy to bend it around the structure,there will be fillets which Hachette are dealing with as pre moulded parts which fit snug into the curved areas,the covering is going to be an interesting exercise and one that can be tackled a bit at a time,really looking forward to the day we receive our first covering material and able to experiment with it.
So go ahead and paint the interior while you have the chance to do so,even the additions such as the metal bits and bobs will benefit as they can be mounted on top of the basic interior finish,even cyno sticks well to acrylic,have a think about this because otherwise you may find that painting afterwards could be nearly impossible,best of luck with your model Bruce.
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Re: Rivets

Postby cliff60 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 6:10 pm

The pinwheel hatchette gives as a free gift is rubbish. Mine broke after doing 2 panels. The bar in the middle got cut through and it fell apart. I cant find another 1 anywhere. So i fixed it by using a nail through the hole lol. that lasted about 5 panels befere it again broke. The nail got cut in half. Another name for the pinwheel is rivet marker. But they dont work on metal very well as they r meant for wood not metal. A very slow and time consuming way to do the rivets is to do them by hand using a nail and hammer to tap the rivets marks into the skin. But making sure their evenly spaced is very hard.
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Re: Rivets

Postby bouncing tigger » Wed Aug 21, 2013 7:31 am

You can get pinwheel markers from dressmakers or craft suppliers. They are used to transfer paper patterns to fabric.
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Re: Rivets

Postby baby_astons » Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:53 am

swivel pounce wheel - that's what it's called in modeling terms - you can get it on :twisted: bay USA
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Re: Rivets

Postby Mark » Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:19 pm

I had the cheapie one that come as a subscription gift. Worked OK, but the Ally sheet deformed quite badly and took a fair bit of straightening out. Not sure if a good quality one would have the same effect or not.
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Re: Rivets

Postby BRUCE » Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:13 pm

Mark,

I got the trumpeter pin wheel of eBay and wasn't too impressed. Got an MDC rivet tool which is okay, although you get a guide with it will have to punch them individually, but I think that will be a better method with more control than a pin wheel device.


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Re: Rivets

Postby Mark » Thu Aug 22, 2013 5:03 am

Looks like a very good tool, but you'd ned the patience of a saint to do the Lanc with that method !!
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Re: Rivets

Postby baby_astons » Sat Aug 24, 2013 4:06 pm

indeed - and you'll also need all the time that is left before the sun explodes to do all the rivets... :oops:
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