Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby steve131 » Fri Nov 24, 2017 7:49 pm

:mrgreen :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Lovely work Snapdragon s , bit of a :angry-banghead: with the straps but they did look good . Were the fuel tanks self sealing rubber hence the black colour :?: thought only allies had them !
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby Morris » Fri Nov 24, 2017 10:45 pm

Excellent advice, descriptions of steps, parts and great work again, SD - :clap:
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby snapdragon » Fri Nov 24, 2017 10:56 pm

Both sides had the same technology of self sealing tanks which is like a rubber bladder with other additives to keep shape such as leather. Don't know much about them personally apart from what colour to paint them from the instructions!

I have some more update pictures.

Today saw me mask and paint the RLM 74 splinter pattern on to the upper wing surface. I took 2 photos, one under normal light in the room and one with flash. I did this to try and show the colours accurately. RLM74 is a green colour, while RLM 75 is a grey shade. Both are not starkly constrasting colourwise.

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I removed the masking with the aid of a cocktail stick. I got it right as there has been no bleeding of colour and the lines are sharp.

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I have moved on and put the front radiator and oil coolant together, adding some Liquid Gravity!

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I will continue with painting up the exterior by dry fitting the fuselage parts together after painting the RLM 75 base coat and then mark out the splinter pattern. Also I will start preparing the cockpit and interior area for painting.
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby wingnut » Sat Nov 25, 2017 4:49 pm

Hi James, great work with the paint job :clap: :clap: what masking media did you use ? I nave yet to try it for my self but I have several kits in my stash that do call for it.
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby snapdragon » Sat Nov 25, 2017 11:51 pm

There are many types and sizes (widths) of masking tape.

The ones I use are of the Japanese yellow kabuki paper masking tape that are low tack and of many widths.

I always have at lest 1 roll of each width in a box within arms length.

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=Tamiya+masking+tape

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=micron+masking+tape

The above links will show you what I normally use. Ignore the white stuff and tape in dispensers. I just use the rolls. Quite often I will actually put the tape lengths I use on the back of my hand first to lessen the tack before applying to the model.

Successful use relies on using quality paint products and applying and letting cure properly. I always let primer cure for a full day, same with paints on top before applying any tape. Even then you might get some peeling of the paint. It's a risk, but generally make sure everything has cured and is properly dry.

If the website I purchase from (links above) doesn't have the stuff in, I hunt on Ebay.

When masking aircraft I use a sharpened cocktail stick to make sure that the tape is properly in the panel lines. This will prevent bleeding.

I can do a "Masterclass" on my next foray into splinter patterns if you wish. You probably noticed that I masked the entire RLM 75 colour leaving only the space where I wanted the RLM 74. This prevents overspray and splatter. I do get through lots of masking tape during a project but it is always worthwhile and the used stuff can go in the green bin.

I try not to mask the Vallejo Metal colour and Ak Xtreme Metal paints as they don't like it and you can and probably will damage the finished surface. I plan to do the metal painting last if at all possible depending on the parts, or after painting the metal and it has cured properly put a top coat of this on.

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/100ml-intermediate-gauzy-agent-shine-enhancer-ak-interactive-ak-894.html

It dries totally clear, doesn't affect the finish of the metal and provides a protective layer for masking.

Before embarking on those expensive stash items get a cheap airfix kit. Slap it together and practice techniques on it such as painting metal, applying protective coating and masking. Better learning the techniques or developing your own on something like that than on the expensive kit and messing it up. You can learn just what abuse the tape can take when applying it, how unprotected metal paints react to masking and what happens once a clear protective layer is put on.

Play with the pressure on your compressor and find out how the paints in the airbrush react to high and low pressures and also the different nozzle sizes. every kit I do I learn something new.

I will for you all do this blog in greater depth and show how I do some of the things and try and explain why!
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby snapdragon » Mon Nov 27, 2017 6:37 pm

Here we go with an update and a more in-depth look at my techniques.

For this update I have started the painting on the interior of the fuselage and some of the parts. As I write this there is a large assortment of parts that have been primed and now are curing and will be painted tomorrow.

If at all possible I do give 24 hours for all painting to cure, but I will take off any masking tape as soon as possible. Usually just after cleaning my airbrush. This is so that the adhesive on the tape doesn't get too much of a grip and so pull off all the paint and primer all the way back to the plastic. This event is minimised by letting every layer pf paint and primer cure and dry fully and so grip the plastic.

When removing making tape I always use a cocktail stick and never a sharp knife. Using a sharp knife increases the possibility of digging in to the paint and plastic ruining all the hours you have spent priming, painting, masking etc. It also gives the masking tape the opportunity to lift the paint that had been damaged by the sharp edge of the blade. Also it increases the risk of you sticking yourself with a sharp point and bleeding all over your nice new paintwork!

Using a cocktail stick to start lifting the masking tape is much better that anything else. It doesn't dig in to the paintwork and you can very easily use it to lift enough of the masking tape so you can grab it and SLOWLY remove it.

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Above you can see the primed main deck that runs through the aircraft to the end of the rear engine. It supports the two cockpits and rear engine and underneath has detail on for the bomb bay. The object here is to mask off the area that is going to be the two cockpit floors. Looking at ZM's Manual we can see where the end of the front cockpit is so that is our starting point.

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I also need to mark where the rear of the front cockpit floor is, so this is where dry fits come into thinks. Above you can see that the front cockpit rear bulkhead is in position This part has the ejector seat pole moulded into it. This entire part on the face will be painted RLM 66 and the pole is going to be painted in a shiny chrome. As that post is not separate (wish it was!) some very creative and intense masking will be needed. More of that at a later date.

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I also have to mask off the rear cockpit. In the above picture I have the oil tanks in place and the front bulkhead of the second cockpit (wrong way round - it was corrected). Also in place we have the framework that would originally have been the support for the fuselage fuel tank which was removed to make room for the cockpit. Also in place is the cockpit rear bulkhead. behind that will go a smaller fuel tank and also in place is a structural bulkhead. From this we can gage where the floor will need painting and some light pencil marks are made.

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Now I need to also consider the fuselage sides and mark them out, so the floor is placed in the fuselage sides and the basic parts fitted. Pencil marks are made on the fuselage sides to mark where the RLM 66 needs to go.

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I also have to consider the upper fuselage replacement for the second cockpit. I also need to mask the interior to paint the RLM 66 cockpit colour. Once all this is done we can mask off using the pencil marks.

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The exterior which is already painted RLM 75 is masked off and covered to prevent overspray and leakage.

https://imgur.com/r7dvIBp

Out comes the RLM 66 and is sprayed on to the masked off areas.

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Once done and the airbrush squeaky clean I remove the masking tape.

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There is overspray. You can see it on these pictures, but I'm not worried as this will be corrected in the next part of the painting of these parts. In the fuselage area I have aluminium and RLM02 to paint. Getting the RLM 66 was the first thing to do as there will be some touch up paint brush to do as it is not possible to mask off some bits.

I need a dry fit to check that everything is right. All the RLM 66 can be masked completely when I start to paint the rest of the interior. This, along with re-masking the exterior will prevent these areas from overspray.

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For the second bit of this update I am going to share a little scratchbuilding 101.

While building the front cockpit ejection seat part of the footrest disappeared into the wild depths of never to be seen for at least six months land!

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So, I reach into my collection of metal rod lengths. I started out using a piece of 0.8mm brass ron. Cut a length and bent it to match the plastic ones.

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It didn't look quite right and a little thick so I used some silver nickel rod at 0.7mm instead. Cut a length off, made a U shape and trimmed to fit. Normal superglue used to fix in place.

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The rest of the seat was then built up and it is ready for painting.

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Once this is in the front cockpit and under paint with the seatbelts on then it will look just fine. The part doesn't have to be an exact match to the kit one. it just has to LOOK like it as the cockpit detail... seatbelts etc will keep the eye moving and it will be hidden at the bottom.

Lots of painting to do over the next couple of days, so just hang on for the next instalment while I take lots of photos and try and stop my brain unravelling and coming loose before escaping to southern latitudes for the winter!


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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby wingnut » Mon Nov 27, 2017 6:53 pm

Hi James, thank you for your advice, I get the cocktail stick tip it's very good advice and cocktail sticks are as "cheap as chips"
I think you should do a "Master class" as I'm sure many members (or not) would benefit from your advice !
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby number1 » Mon Nov 27, 2017 6:56 pm

These pens would be good for painting that ejector seat pole, https://www.graff-city.com/markers-c79/ ... Z5EALw_wcB
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby steve131 » Mon Nov 27, 2017 7:39 pm

Great work so far ,nice save on the ejection seat 8-) .
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby snapdragon » Mon Nov 27, 2017 11:07 pm

Thanks for the link, Number1.

I may try that pen at a later date. It is alcohol based and so I would want to try it on something else first to make sure there is no chemical reactions with the paints I am already using. with this kit costing me £151 I don't really want to use something which at this moment I don't know much about on paints that I know. I'd rather get a cheap £8 airfix kit and use it as a test bed first. If it works and there is no reaction to the primer or paints then it can go into the box!

Do they have brass, copper gold, bronze etc.?

I am intending to use this build not really as a masterclass, but to show my techniques and by how thinking both inside the box and outside it you can use what you would have around the bench can have more than one use.

For the rear bulkhead of the front cockpit part I'm going to hopefully show that being careful and taking your time you can do it with just various widths of masking tape, time and patience.

I have already taken the first step and that is to prime that part with stylnrez metal primer. The second step is to paint the front facing area with RLM66 which the base cockpit colour. once that has cured it is just a case of masking everything but the ejection seat rod. I'm not sure how much will be seen once the seat is in place but I aim to show that pride in doing a good job right fist time is not time wasted as well as showing what can be done.

I suppose that ZM could have done that pole as a separate part to go in there which would have made painting much easier but as they haven't we have to suck it up and get stuck in. Once all the masking tape is in place the pole will be sprayed with gloss black primer and then once cured either the chrome paint or stainless steel from AK which has a slight blue tinge to it reflects nicely on a gloss background. I would have thought that the stainless steel would be a good one because that's what that part would have been made out of.

Thanks for the comment Steve. looking at the part today as I primed the seat I could have used a 0.5 or 0.4mm rod which would have been closer to the plastic part, but as that bit will be at the bottom of the cockpit up against one of the sidewalls and painted RLM66 as is the rest of the cockpit then I don't think anyone will notice! it is a very somple bit of scratch work and will save me hours on my knees with a torch between the old choppers and many four letter words!

Tomorrow more painting of the fuselage interior plus other things!

James
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby snapdragon » Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:24 pm

Plenty to show this post but most of it is checking and paint preparation.

There's more masking and some in depth coloured etch for Steve.

These kind of kits are not just the shake and bake stuff. They are expensive and there is much more to them than initially meets the eye which means that you can't just rush in like a bull in an china shop and you have to have a very good idea on just how you want the end result to look. With these kits it is not all about the outside. you have to consider also the inside of the kit. So for quite a while you appear not to have made much progress and then, all of a sudden..... thinkgs start being finished and go together and the aircraft starts looking like an aircraft!

I have painted several parts RLM 66 which is the cockpit colour. This means that now I can check on some things to make sure masking and painting was accurate. It is also the second part of interior preparation. I wanted to check on just how much of the ejection seat pole could be seen once the seat was in place.

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Ah ha! Some time saved here. Very little to nothing can be seen and so I don't need to mask and paint the thing! There is still work to do on the seat but more on that Later! Also, while putting the seat in place it was a tight fit and so some paint was damaged. This is easily repaired later when the seat will go in to its place.

A check on the base parts of the second cockpit. My initial marking out was just fine. I can now start masking for the second paint job, on these and other parts is is AK's Xtreme Aluminium.

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I need to be accurate with this masking as it will define the lines of where the two cockpits are and other equipment. Also there is much detail on the underside of the main floor and contains the front wheel well and the bomb bay. Two areas on the underside can be masked off but all the lines and pipework will have to be painted by hand with a small brush!

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Now it is time to prepare parts for the etched cockpit set. The detail on the parts is really good and those that choose to can paint and detail the parts with decals from the decal sheet. I bought the cockpit etched set that is made by Eduard for ZM when I get the kit. It is an easier way to do the detail but care has to be taken.

First of all we have to remove all the detail from the front.

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This is because the parts from the etched set will replace them.

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Now it is time to put the seatbelts on the pilots seat. The second seat will come later when it is painted!

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These are the parts

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We begin with the lap belts. using a cocktail stick to add the superglue we build up the belt.

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Attach the belt to the seat

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and bend into shape being careful, using a few spots of superglue to tack the belt down to make it look realistic.

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We now do the same with the other side

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W have to bend part of the buckle, seen in the circle

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Complete the belt

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Add it to the seat like the previous one

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Add the shoulder harness, tacking and bending it to the seat back and then across the lap belts. when in place and surrounded by the consoles they'll look great!

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More parts to have the detail removed in preparation for painting and adding on the etched detail.

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As we get going on the interior I have a huge pile of parts to prime and paint plus detail. Some are already to build up. I have also invested today in ZM's Metal gun barrels and pitot set. I have also purchased a masking set from Maketar masks for the insignia. They don't do one for ZM, but they do for HKM's Dornier so they should fit!

Sorry for the length of this post. I will try and keep them shorter!

questions, comments etc welcome.

James
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby Morris » Thu Nov 30, 2017 9:24 pm

I'm drooling, SD - most excellent! :clap: :clap: :clap:
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby snapdragon » Mon Dec 04, 2017 3:10 pm

Thanks Morris

ZM kits are all about the detail and the learning. You spend lots of time painting bits then assembling them not the other way around!

Here's another update. This time we look at the front cockpit and the armament... well some of it!

With lots of parts finally prepared and pre painted we can do some very careful assembly

The second instructor cockpit base is fitted and the bulkhead is detail painted on both sides and test fitted. The base is the same as the mount for the A0 variant fuselage fuel tank. The second instructor cockpit was a very cut down version of the main cockpit... not even an ejector seat was fitted - just blind flying IP and throttle controls etc. just the basics!!

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The metal barrel pack has come. There are also the Fug 24 mast and pitot tube in the set too. This shows the metal barrel next to the kit plastic one. Nice little enhancement, but a little on the expensive side! These are ZM's official AM parts and come from Master Model in Poland! They are really good renditions of the MG 151 20mm cannon barrels. The official set you purchase from ZM website (or friend shops) you can also find Master Models 2 pack on Ebay at good prices, if you only want the barrels!

Parts painted and ready for masking. Some delicate stuff is needed here!

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Time to add the rudder pedals

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Tiny bit of bending and supergluing with a cocktail stick and they are in place. No need to paint these. They were all - of became bare metal through usage or initial fitting. Makes them show up a little in the depths of the office! Also added battery, control column and other small parts.

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Front cockpit rear bulkhead with ejector seat installed. This was left overnight, fitted into one half of the fuselage to made sure the right angle was obtained. you can also see the completed painting on the ejection seat compressed air bottles in the background.

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First part of the compressed air system fitted behind the bulkhead. Also you can see that the front cockpit is going to look very full when done!

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A better look at the first three bottles. They just held compressed air and a red stripe was put around them as a warning that they were not part of the pilots oxygen system. These will be more or less hidden by the oil tanks.

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Loads of bits from the paint shop!

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Ejector Seat handle and mount fitted. Best doing it now while you can get in there!

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Front cockpit bulkhead and parts ready to finish and fit. The rear of the 30mm Mk 108 cannon jutted into the cockpit and a cover was put over it. The bomb bay doors manual release has yet to be painted.

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There we go! ready to go on!

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First we have to fit the side panels and nose wheel bay sides and rear! All the detail painting has already been done.

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You can see the last three compressed air bottles now in place at the back of the nose wheel bay.

With this picture you can see a second red handle. This is the cockpit canopy, tail and rear prop ejection system. Explosive bolts were fitted to the propeller at the rear and also the base of the tail. When pulled it would blow off these components thus giving a clear route. The pilot would then pull the ejection seat handle and out he went!

When the only surviving example of this aircraft went into restoration, the restorers found that the explosive bolts were still fitted and the system was live!

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Oil tanks fitted. Also the front bulkhead for the second cockpit was also glued in place.

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More to be posted later

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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby number1 » Mon Dec 04, 2017 5:34 pm

Well Im gobsmacked at the amount of details and the informative text you share, excellent.
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby Mark » Mon Dec 04, 2017 6:02 pm

Those seat belts look great, and a darn sight less fiddle than HGW's belts !
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby steve131 » Mon Dec 04, 2017 10:18 pm

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :clap: Excellent work Snapdragon s , this is a stunner. Your killing all us poor men with this :lol:
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby snapdragon » Mon Dec 04, 2017 10:34 pm

Continuing on with the build.

I have been today reading a very interesting article online about the colours and painting of the Dornier 335 from a guy who works at Dornier.

At the start of this build I decided that as the A-12 variant is a training aircraft I would go with a 74/75/76 paint job and gleefully got stuck in! After reading the article I may be totally wrong about my colour choice for the exterior. Early Dornier 335 would be painter 70/71/65 as it is actually classified as a fast bomber. This was then changed to 81/82/76. There was some confusion on the change over as RLM hadn't actually defined the shades and so there were various shades of 81/82 manufactured before RLM actually sent the colour chip and formula out to paint companies. After reading the article and on further google search The A-12 black and white photos that are on the net do look like 81/82/76.

With this in mind I have not decided to do a totally new paint job, but stick with the 74/75/76 paint already started. There's only 1 survivor in 81/82/76, very few A-12 trainer photos and who is to say that one in 74/75/76 didn't exist It could be a camouflage test for that aircraft or a Trainer aircraft for night operations! Still, something a little out of the ordinary!

I am continuing with the front cockpit and adding the etched coloured set.

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After putting on the etched colour bases after removing the part detail and painting I added it to the cockpit set and added the front cockpit bulkhead with the ammunition storage for the 20mm cannon.

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Once that had cured I added the 30mm cannon and it's ammo storage and feeds. I couldn't get the cannon into the right place even with the instructions, so I modified the storage part and cut a joint allowing me to widen the area and slip the cannon in. The storage is open at the rear so some liquid gravity has been added. The MK108 will be patched with the appropriate paint. There was a dry fit with the breeches of the MK151 cannon to ensure a correct fit and then the storage glued into place.

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The top part and divider for the MK151 cannons was added. This also adds another part of the front cockpit bulkhead. and an outer skin part for the cannon bay access doors where the hinges are.

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bay doors test fitted. WOWI

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Fuselage fuel tank added

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Rear motor front bulkhead added

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Pilots instrument panel build up. It is a simple process of removing the detail on the plastic part and painting RLM 66. Then adding the coloured etch in sequence using superglue and careful application with a cocktail stick.

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Still a couple of parts to add there. and the next photo of that will show it in place. Last photo for now shows the bomb bay area with the detail painted up and ready for parts to be applied.

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There's still much to do such as the detail for the second cockpit, all the levers to add in both cockpits, the 20mm cannon to add and the front firewall, paint to patch and parts to add in the bomb bay! Things are starting to come together now though and proof that preparation and pre-painting pays off!

I would like to point out that the HGW belts, while fiddly and time consuming, do actually add more depth than etched and painted belts. Their micro fabric can really replicate the actual belts the way they can be shaped and twisted. Etched belts are a slightly more convenient way of doing it and because they are so thin just lack that bit of depth. Of course getting them to bend in various directions is much harder than the HGW sets!

Steve.... Don't be put off. All my techniques are very simple and not hard to do. Most of it are basic skills. It's just paying attention to the detail and knowing when to put the airbrush down and pick up a paintbrush, when to throw a paddy and when just to walk away.

Using coloured and normal etch is a basic thing. Sometimes you have to think in 3D. Sometimes all you need to do, like this post is be very careful, don't rush the job, be sparing and careful with glue application and build things up. The main thing with every build is get familiar with the subject. Google for photographs. Ask around for maintenance manuals and other references. ZM usually have very good companion books for their kits. There's plenty of walkrounds of subjects on the net. The more familiar you are with the subject you are building the easier the build and the little extras you can put in that don't take long, are easy to do and just make an area look better look good because you have seen them in photos etc. OOB builds are great but just adding that little bit of wiring here and there is not stretching you technique wise and every little learning experience and something you figure out yourself is fine and adds to your skills!

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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby Morris » Mon Dec 04, 2017 11:27 pm

Beautiful SD - I'm enjoying this !
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby snapdragon » Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:02 pm

Thanks Morris.

Here's an update.

I kept going with the two cockpits and now they are finished and closing up the fuselage gets a little nearer!

I did foul up by adding the fuselage fuel tank and engine firewall before I should. This will remind everyone to pay attention to sequence order of adding parts! I was lucky to be able to remove those parts and add the second cockpit interior and then replace those parts without damage!!!

First things first. Remove detail and replace with etched parts. Steve. this is basic stuff and once done things start to look good much quicker than a paintbrush and hours of work!

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That's the basics done. Next up are the seatbelts for the second cockpit. Just the same as the fist one, except that I have but them on in a different order with the shoulder harness first. Superglue and cocktail stick used.

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After removing the fuselage fuel tank and rear bulkhead the second cockpit platform is added to where a much bigger fuel tank would sit in single seat versions of this aircraft.

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The fuel tanks and fuselage firewall bulkhead are replaced. I may add some extra plumbing when the engine is done.

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Added the console for the second cockpit. A much reduced one with throttles and basic instruments.

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Using a very sharp knife and superglue I added the etched and painted levers etc. These things are small and some fine tweezers and patience are needed!

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Same with the front cockpit. Final details are added to the consoles and instrument panel

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Dry fit of completed section into fuselage halves with second cockpit outer added. IP and other parts including masked windscreen also added to this part.

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Dry fit of front windscreen and 20mm cannon bay parts.

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As I had some extra time on my hands and the parts were already painted and I was on a roll I put together the rear duct. All I had done is put standard Xtreme metal Aluminium on to the silver metal primer with RLM 02 onto the face of one bulkhead. I was going to detail the radiator mesh with a darker magnesium metal, but it can hardly be seen once in place. No need to bother.

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Once at this stage the section was dry fitted into the area inside one of the fuselage halves. This is to make sure that the bulkheads are fitted in place properly. They are left to cure while the fire extinguishers are finished with some final paint brush work.

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Here we are. the two fire extinguishers and mount.

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Where they fit

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Mount dry fit. Just a check to make sure that everything is ok!

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There we go. All up to date.

I have to finish and add the front firewall and 20mm cannons and also start painting and building the engines.

Questions and comments welcome

James
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Partwork Building is like meeting enemy action - no plan survives first contact!!
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Re: Zoukei Mura Do335 A-12

Postby Mark » Fri Dec 08, 2017 11:41 am

Stunning cockpit James! The is becoming a real peach
Cheers
Mark

If you nose runs and your feet smell, you're upside down !
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