Morrigans little U-Boat

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Morrigans little U-Boat

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Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby morrigan » Wed Jul 03, 2013 12:08 am

I found this little gem from Jasmine models:
http://www.jasmodel.com/PRODUCT/205001/205001_E.htm
and little is the operative word. :D

I've decided its the perfect little kit for testing a flexible CA from Bob smith industries to see if it would be any good to use on the Zero since normal CA is to brittle for some of the joints.

Kit and glue:
Image

Brass fret no 1:
Image

Fret no 2:
Image

Now do I paint it up or leave it au nautrale?
Needs more fusewire
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby GrantJ » Wed Jul 03, 2013 7:08 am

The photo etching looks ver nice and delicate but wheres the U-Boat? :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

That looks like my kind of kit (thanks again Grrrrrrr! :D add one to my cart please)

I looked at the link and it looks really different but had to chuckle reading where it says you need sneezers and superglue :laughing-rolling: If i dip my tweezers in pepper will they become sneezers?

im very curious to hear more about the superglue- first time i hear of it - let me know how it works :D
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby maximus2012 » Wed Jul 03, 2013 7:33 am

All I need is a 1/350 scale type VII c and use halve of the hull then. :laughing-rolling: Looking good the details, try to solder them bits together. :o
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby steve131 » Wed Jul 03, 2013 7:55 am

Wow what a kit :dance:
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby baby_astons » Wed Jul 03, 2013 1:17 pm

ooohhhh, lovely, one could scratch build an engine, the torpedo tubes, or at least half of them to show the torpedos, install proper propeller shafts and a few other bits :D
in fact replace all flat pieces by tubes or rods where possible and necessary...
suppose it doesn't qualify for the x-mas price bracket though... the glue might be too expensive :mrgreen:
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby chill » Wed Jul 03, 2013 2:13 pm

GrantJ wrote:im very curious to hear more about the superglue- first time i hear of it - let me know how it works :D




I got some technical info from Henkel here in the UK about which glue would be best for the Zero, with regards to Super glue:

'Superglue is a very brittle material. In shear loading it is very strong but and hint of a peel load and the product cracks and the joint splits. Loctite 480 is a toughened form which resists peel loads better.

Alternatively look at an acrylic based product like Loctite 330. This is a two part product but the parts are not mixed together like the epoxy. Put the resin on one part and the activator on the other. Any excess product squeezed out of the joint will not cure so can be easily cleaned up with acetone.

The most important thing to remember with aluminium bonding is "clean, abrade, clean". We can bond really well to aluminium oxide but it is not bonded well to the surface. The better the surface preparation the better the stick.

The second thing is to let the product cure. These glue fix in a couple of minutes but will take 12-24 hours to fully cure. Full cure is when the product has stopped gaining strength'
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby Mark » Wed Jul 03, 2013 3:20 pm

Damn ! That's another one I've got to buy........ I'm a sucker for etched skeleton kits. I've got quite a few from the Aerobase range.

I see they do a T-Rex, which my daughter may like (even if I have to twist her arm :laughing-rolling: )
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby Mark » Wed Jul 03, 2013 3:24 pm

maximus2012 wrote:All I need is a 1/350 scale type VII c and use halve of the hull then. :laughing-rolling: Looking good the details, try to solder them bits together. :o


Here you go ! Look forward to the build diary :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/11105391 ... 80&ff14=65
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby morrigan » Thu Jul 04, 2013 2:49 am

baby_astons wrote:ooohhhh, lovely, one could scratch build an engine, the torpedo tubes, or at least half of them to show the torpedos, install proper propeller shafts and a few other bits :D
in fact replace all flat pieces by tubes or rods where possible and necessary...
suppose it doesn't qualify for the x-mas price bracket though... the glue might be too expensive :mrgreen:


Oh I was tempted to do that, but I've decided to leave it in brass.
If I start painting bits, I will start adding things which is not the idea for this build. :laughing-rolling:
Needs more fusewire
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby morrigan » Thu Jul 04, 2013 2:50 am

GrantJ wrote:The photo etching looks ver nice and delicate but wheres the U-Boat? :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

That looks like my kind of kit (thanks again Grrrrrrr! :D add one to my cart please)

I looked at the link and it looks really different but had to chuckle reading where it says you need sneezers and superglue :laughing-rolling: If i dip my tweezers in pepper will they become sneezers?

im very curious to hear more about the superglue- first time i hear of it - let me know how it works :D


might be sneezers if I inhale any of the tiny bits!!
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby morrigan » Thu Jul 04, 2013 2:52 am

Mark wrote:Damn ! That's another one I've got to buy........ I'm a sucker for etched skeleton kits. I've got quite a few from the Aerobase range.

I see they do a T-Rex, which my daughter may like (even if I have to twist her arm :laughing-rolling: )


Its a really interesting sideline Jasmin have, compared to the other stuff they make.
Aircarft details, aircraft details...dinosaur,...aircarft set, u-boat. Whaaa?
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby morrigan » Thu Jul 04, 2013 2:53 am

Mark wrote:
maximus2012 wrote:All I need is a 1/350 scale type VII c and use halve of the hull then. :laughing-rolling: Looking good the details, try to solder them bits together. :o


Here you go ! Look forward to the build diary :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/11105391 ... 80&ff14=65



Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm :think: :think: :think:
Well the skelteon u-boat is relatively cheap, oh dear oh dear.
Needs more fusewire
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby morrigan » Thu Jul 04, 2013 3:01 am

According to BSI's website, the thicker instaflex has rubber in it, not sure if the thinner stuff has rubber in it as well.
I'm thought I'd give it a try as it's fairly reasonable price wise. Hmm we need a :superlglue: roundup!!

"INSTA-FLEX+™ clear rubber toughened has similar qualities to our black IC-2000™ but can be used in applications where you do not want the adhesive to be seen. The carbon component of IC-2000™ that gives the CA its black color also contributes to its unsurpassed strength. Since INSTA-FLEX+™ has this carbon removed, its strength is a little less than IC-2000™ but still superior to standard CA's. When esthetics are important and a flexible bond is required, INSTA-FLEX+™ is your best choice. It forms superior bonds to soft urethane and vinyl plastics. Both INSTA-FLEX™ and INSTA-FLEX+™ work well when bonding R/C car tires. When a joint has a larger than normal gap, flexible CA's provide superior shock resistant bonds.

INSTA-FLEX™ flexible thin CA is ideal for many applications, including the installation of CA hinges. When cured, INSTA-FLEX™ does not turn brittle and remains clear, even if accelerated with INSTA-SET™. It has superior shock resistance. Although not as thin in consistency as INSTA-CURE™, INSTA-FLEX™ still has good penetrating qualities and its application can be easier to control. For CA hinges, we recommend drilling a 1/16" hole in the center of the hinge slots to insure the complete saturation of the hinge when INSTA-FLEX™ is applied. INSTA-FLEX™ has a different, less irritating odor compared to regular CA's, but still can not be used on white foam. INSTA-FLEX™ has also proven to be superior when bonding anodized aluminum."
Needs more fusewire
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby morrigan » Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:57 pm

And the shipyard is open!

The frets are very thin sheet, so after a few trials I've removed the clear protective film from both frets as the film has a very strong grip on the brass and its very easy to distort parts that aren't attached to the fret during the film removal process.
Thin brass also means that the assembly at this early stage flexible and delicate, so is testing the glue joints thoroughly.
I thought I could be clever and wear cotton gloves to avoid fingerprints on the brass, but there are to many little sticky outy snaggy bits. So there will be finger print removal session once assembly is done.

First few bulkeads installed and the electric motors + standard unit of measurement:
Image

Another couple of bulkheads and the diesel engines are in. The bulkhead that protrudes belong the sub is also one of the display stand end pieces:
Image

Image
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby Eric » Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:58 pm

Try latex gloves used in catering food preparation, they might be better.
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby Mark » Fri Jul 05, 2013 5:00 am

Grrrrrrr... more temptation :angry-banghead:

Looks a really nice little kit :D
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby casper » Fri Jul 05, 2013 7:08 am

Amazing detail for something so small Morrigan and will look really nice inside the Revell U-Boat
on the jasmine web site it says to use sneezer and metal glue :think: :?: may i ask what sneezer is
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby morrigan » Fri Jul 05, 2013 10:47 am

casper wrote:Amazing detail for something so small Morrigan and will look really nice inside the Revell U-Boat
on the jasmine web site it says to use sneezer and metal glue :think: :?: may i ask what sneezer is

Grants advises they are tweezers with pepper applied.
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby Mark » Fri Jul 05, 2013 1:16 pm

casper wrote:Amazing detail for something so small Morrigan and will look really nice inside the Revell U-Boat


Or you could get some brass shim and plate one half :think:
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Re: Morrigans little U-Boat

Postby morrigan » Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:57 am

Why do I get a bad feeling I'm going up buying another 1 or two of these and some brass shim??
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