Working with Water Transfer Printing

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Working with Water Transfer Printing



Working with Water Transfer Printing

Postby Andreas » Sat Nov 02, 2019 7:32 pm

Hi Folks

After a few inquiries about applying water transfer printing, I put here is a guide to the procedure for working with water transfer printing. Even though the network is full of instructions, not every is described by the application from the same, which also lead to uncertainties in applying. This is the procedure as I've Applied, and this has always with great results. But I tell also expressly, I not belong to any corporation or other, which sells the product, but I have discovered this sometime ago, taught myself, and I am enjoying working with it. This is a alternative to painting, which you can achieve very good results with. Applying Water transfer printing is easy and quick to learn. The possibilities to modify its components, Optical, and this in any desired design is endless. There are more than 5000 different patterns, and the roles in various widths and lengths. There are starter kits for little money, and it goes up to professional equipment you can buy. When water transfer printing you can afford mistakes, they can be easily corrected. Should it fail to equal a design, or the appearance; the part is simply immersed again. There is no grinding needed, simply rinse the excess which is always after diving on the component with Cold water, drying and dive again. Throughout the dipping process for its own protection, a respirator and rubber gloves must be worn. This film penetrates into the smallest pore, and goes hard away again.
Description of the method.
The decor is printed on a special water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol film. If appropriate, the parts to be coated are primed and / or coated with a base color (basecoat). This is necessary, for example, when a decorative brown, green, and includes a transparent pattern. For example, I want to put on a vehicle a winter camouflage pattern, the component should have the basic white color. The green and brown pattern of the film covers the white part on the dive, but the pattern of the film the White Transparent comes through. Result, you got a winter camouflage brown, green and white.
How do I treat a component with water transfer printing? A.) Preparing components. B.) Clean and dry Parts . C.) Basic color from the component to the carrier film. The film is a third larger than the component you want to design. All around the component should be at least 5 cm of the transfer film survive. Now it is nessesary to put on some masking tape on the edges of the Film. Half of the adhesive tape is glued on the edge, is folded and so fixed to the other side of the decor. This results in a stable border. This is done because that the Film doesnt curl up on the water surface. Now you are preparing the water into a basin, sink, bowl etc. This container should be large enough that your components fit in as well as the carrier film. The water temperature should be between 25-30 degrees. The time for the whole process is important. It now does not come on for a few seconds, but it should not take longer between each step.

Step 1. The prepared tape printing film is placed on the surface of the dip tank, with the sticky side on the water, this is the page where the pattern is much to see. You can also if you are not sure which side is the right side make this test. Moisten your middle finger and thumb lightly, take a rest slides between the two fingers and press. The page remains liable, the adhesive side.

Step 2. From the time of laying of the film in the water you have 60 + - 10 sek to remove bubbles formed when inserting the film on the water under the foil. Dabbing lightly so that they escape under the tape edge with your fingers to the brim. This sounds harder than it is. The important thing is that the fingers are dry during removing the bubbles to the edges of the foil, With wet fingers immediately the films structure would be destroyed in seconds.

Step 3. Now after the elapsed time, and elimination of air bubbles, spray the carrier film on the water with an activator, but! only so much that the film is fogged . Now you can watch a Chemical Reaction, the structure of liquid, it combines with the water. put on a spraying mask for painting, yes it is not unnecessarily inhale the gas and harm your health. Do this work in a well ventilated area. After spray the foil with activator you have again 60 sec. Time for diving the component . The components to be coated are now immersed in 45 degree angle through the floating film in the water bath, but do this slowly! By the pressure of the water the decorative film is pressed uniformly on the portions. It now adheres to the component. The printed parts must be washed of immediately under Cold after diving. This is nesserary to remove the excess polyvinyl alcohol base layer of the film, this is a slimy layer. Rinse so long until every layer is completely removed. Now dry the treated component , and then when wanted coat with a clear coat. The component may also be further processed. This was a little guide as I traversed the water transfer printing.

Part before Water Transfer Printing

Part after Water Transfer Printing

Best Regards
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Re: Working with Water Transfer Printing

Postby casper » Sat Nov 02, 2019 9:39 pm

This should be in the Modelling Master classes section :clap: :text-bravo:
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Re: Working with Water Transfer Printing

Postby number1 » Sat Nov 02, 2019 11:17 pm

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